Radiator noise and vibration
- Thread starter Ethan2014
- Start date
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sounds like the thermostatic rad valves are on the wrong way, have a look at them and see if there's an arrow
Thank you very much for the reply. The room radiator make much bigger noise and even the floor can feel it I have to shut the radiator completely to stop the noise and vibration. Other rooms have some noise but not that much. Two things I don’t understand are why only this room make so unbearable noise and why happens after 7-8 hours.
because the thermostatic radiator valves are starting to shut down after that amount of time as the room is heating up (they work on air temp)
when they start to shut down that's when they start to vibrate as the water is passing through the valve in the wrong direction.
you'll need to swap the valve around, replace them, or as a temporary measure remove the head on the valve
when they start to shut down that's when they start to vibrate as the water is passing through the valve in the wrong direction.
you'll need to swap the valve around, replace them, or as a temporary measure remove the head on the valve
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thanks so much for your convincing reply.
On the opposite end of the radiator is a lockshield valve. It will (should) have a plastic cap on it. Remove the cap and screw the spindle fully down to close, then open it half a turn. This will reduce the flow through the radiator and may be enough to stop the noise. Leave the radiator running for half an hour, then verify that it is fully hot at the top, and a little less hot at the bottom. If not, you can adjust the lockshield in very small increments, but no more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait another half hour before checking the heat.
Larger adjustments will throw your work out. It's a fine balance, and will be at the "nearly closed" mark. When done, make a note of how far you opened it from the closed position and refit the protective cap to prevent the adjustment being changed.
Larger adjustments will throw your work out. It's a fine balance, and will be at the "nearly closed" mark. When done, make a note of how far you opened it from the closed position and refit the protective cap to prevent the adjustment being changed.
He is quite right.
But reducing the flow may save you the noise until you replace the TRVs (some modern ones can be set to fit on either end) or swap their position.
The adjustment will cost you nothing but a few minutes of your time with a small wrench. If it doesn't help, no matter.
But reducing the flow may save you the noise until you replace the TRVs (some modern ones can be set to fit on either end) or swap their position.
The adjustment will cost you nothing but a few minutes of your time with a small wrench. If it doesn't help, no matter.
maybe the flow is greater through that rad; maybe the TRV is more worn and loose, or a different model.
The lockshields should have been screwed down to slow the flow, when they were installed, but some people don't know or don't bother, especially when rads are taken off for redecoration.
If you have a hot-water cylinder you might be able to reduce the pump speed, but park that for now.
The lockshields should have been screwed down to slow the flow, when they were installed, but some people don't know or don't bother, especially when rads are taken off for redecoration.
If you have a hot-water cylinder you might be able to reduce the pump speed, but park that for now.
because this is the only rad valve that is on the wrong way round?
How much the cost to replace valves?
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