Hi, bit of advice needed please. Two of my radiators are pretty old, & the bleed valves have started to round off to the point I can no longer use a key to bleed them. Anybody in the trade have any tips on what I can do to get them out to replace them, special tool maybe? Cheers.
rounded bleed valves
- Thread starter adeclarke
- Start date
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You would be better rewnewing the whole air valve assembly. You would either unscrew it with a spanner if it has an external hex , or for an older radiator you would use a radiator spanner (allen key) to spin it out.
Hi, unfortunately it's an old radiator with the bleed valve built into the unit, only moving part is the bit you use the key on. Have tried using socket spanner bits of 5 & 4.5mm to get a grip, but 5mm is too big, 4.5 too small. Thanks tho.
If i come across this scenario i use the flat end of my footprints. I put flat end into valve and then turn footprint body with a big spanner. If that doesnt work heat the air valve up with a blow torch first to help loosen it.
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Bit of a layman here, could you explain what a "footprint" is? Cheers
Cut some narrow strips from a steel beer can and bend them into a 'U' shape. Use them to 'line' the socket in a rad. key, and tap it onto the remains of the square.
If you can't get a replacement screw, cut a screwdriver slot in the end of it with a hacksaw before re-fitting it - and don't overtighten it!
If you can't get a replacement screw, cut a screwdriver slot in the end of it with a hacksaw before re-fitting it - and don't overtighten it!
1. Bleed nipples are usually square head, and are a BSW profile thread. Unlikely that any BA or Metric spanners would fit properly.
2. A possible remedy is to buy a brass (NOT plastic or pot metal) bleed key. They all have slightly recessed open ends to make it easier to slide onto the nipple. Carefully file this recess off, taking care to keep the end square to the length. This may allow the key to enter further onto an undamaged section of the nipple.
3. If you do manage to get one loose, then:
3.1 Turn off the TRV or wheel head valve at one end of the radiator.
3.2 Close the lock shield valve at the other end, counting the number of 1/8 turns required to fully close it.
3.3. Remove the bleed nipple completely, and measure its diameter and thread profile.
3.4 Replace the old nipple and re-open the valves, lock shield the same number of 1/8 turns as closed.
3.5 Order some new nipples of the correct size.
2. A possible remedy is to buy a brass (NOT plastic or pot metal) bleed key. They all have slightly recessed open ends to make it easier to slide onto the nipple. Carefully file this recess off, taking care to keep the end square to the length. This may allow the key to enter further onto an undamaged section of the nipple.
3. If you do manage to get one loose, then:
3.1 Turn off the TRV or wheel head valve at one end of the radiator.
3.2 Close the lock shield valve at the other end, counting the number of 1/8 turns required to fully close it.
3.3. Remove the bleed nipple completely, and measure its diameter and thread profile.
3.4 Replace the old nipple and re-open the valves, lock shield the same number of 1/8 turns as closed.
3.5 Order some new nipples of the correct size.
They tend to be a last resort, I know a few people that have used them and they haven't had issues, never have myself though.
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