Recent content by alarm_guy

Can't you tap into the ring from under the floorboards?

There's no reason that a good quality pet PIR that's well installed should false alarm. That's all well and good, but if your cat/s are gonna be jumping onto sofas and tables, there's no point in fitting pet safe PIRs. Visonic = rubbish as already stated. Go for Napco Adaptives or Rokonet Cosmos...

You can leave the control panel back up battery connected to hold off the siren until you're ready for removing the cover. If you do this though, the siren should still activate when you remove the bell box cover, so a decent set of ear plugs/defenders are still essential. Once the cover is off...

The strobe does'nt self activate, so it's not really an issue. You're right in suggesting the piezo does'nt produce a high current it's self. It's the piezo drive circuit that produces around 400v to drive the piezo element which can shock you if you go cutting the wires leading from the PCB to...

That's not a good idea on a piezo sounder. The piezo drive is very high voltage and while the current is'nt high enough to kill or injure you, it can be very uncomfortble. The last thing you'd want when you're at the top of a ladder I'm sure. Just look for a cylinder wrapped in green, red or...

Pretty much any of the suggestions above are fine, just don't take a spur from the lighting circuit (especially if there are any flourescent or HID fittings on it). Also, if you do use a fused spur and you're using an ADE panel, don't use a fuse of a greater value than 2 Amps. You'll void the...

You have a DA Systems Abacus (probably a 15 or 72 as you mentioned the metal case) which is not a bad panel at all, so you may aswell hold onto it. As for defaulting, it can be done easilly, but you'd need the manual to help you reprogramme the system after you crash it to default the codes. The...

Try www.photobucket.com :wink:

What exactly are you doing? Unless you're changing the alarm panel, bell box, or bell cable, you should'nt need to disconnect the bell box's internal battery. Entering your user code should silence the tamper alarm you got from removing the panel cover. As stated, entering the engineer's code...

Have a look in the Yellow Pages and get a few quotes (most these days don't charge for a quote and survey) Ask what equipment they'll be using, and post it here. I, and I'm sure others will offer an opinion on wether it's any good. A basic 3 bed system can be done for around £350 with good...

Try this: There are, of course, a few other ways of doing it so there are no cables on show at all, but trade secrets should be kept that way IMO :wink:

Bellboxes... I'd go for either a Texecom Odyssey or Flashguard. Both are nice, reliable boxes. You can probably get the Texecom from where you picked the panel up from. For the Flashguard, I think Farnell do some. They have online ordering an sell to anyone. The Flashguard is a bit more...

First thought... What is the "patress at the end of an alarm cable" for? If you mean that there's going to be a PIR there in future, it's a very good idea not to run mains cables near a PIR or it's cabling. Mains cabling and alarm equipment definately does cause problems. It's a bit hit and miss...

You may have to call out an engineer to do this for you, as the panel's engineering menus are likely to be locked with an engineer pass code which is different to the one used to unset and set the system. I don't have the manual for that particular panel, but the closest one I have (the TS 690)...

What alarm panel does he have? A strobe light is'nt a good idea. They're abit too obvious in most cases, and are used to signal that the alarm has been activated. A small LED on the outside of his main door would work, but I'd need to know the panel to see if it's compatible.