Recent content by shavvy

Fair point , breezer. However poster was using 10mm cable so there`s a possibility there may be the capacity depending on the calculations, but if he needs to ask then the advice is probably no

I think you`ll find most built under ovens come with a 3 pin plug attached, for plugging into a socket. I never said which socket to use. And what is so wrong with connecting the hob to to the dedicated cooker curcuit :?:

Actually maybe I should use the phrase Cooker Connection Unit, I don`t mean plug the hob in the socket.

What is a cooker socket for if not for connecting cooking appliances :?:

Arctic flex into an RCD plug is fine. I`ve used one like that for a couple of years. If you look at many of the outdoor socket kits in the sheds (or even Screwfix) that`s how they`re wired. :D

First question- what is the power of the oven? Is it a built-under single oven? If so, it can usually be plugged into a normal socket- this would mean you could connect your hob to the cooker connection unit as you wanted, by running a length of 10mm from the outlet. Electric hobs need a lot...

You say it`s a new shower. Was this a replacement? Is it more powerful than the old one? It`s possible it`s drawing too much current for the cable suppling it which would cause the melted wiring :( What is the power of the shower and what size is the cable? Or possibly the connections in the...

I`m sure 90% of the problems on these forums could be fixed if people just used a big enough hammer :lol: :lol:

As to the rating of mcb it may depend on what make of CU you use for the replacement. If you go for a new Wylex CU they don`t do 45A mcb`s so it would have to be a 50A one. I`d have thought the higher rating would be better anyway as running an mcb at full load will cause it to get hot and you...

Does your CU already have an RCD? You only need one as long as its at 30 mA trip rating. And yes, you`ll need a 50A mcb.

Forgot to say its diagram 13.2 on the online manual. This is the blurb for the thermostat but you`ve hopefully got that already!!http://www.climate-eu.invensys.com/UsersArea/2211691891926736/Digistat%203%20Instr2.pdf

Just been looking up the data sheet for the programmer. The third wire threw me cos it`s similar to my Sunvic thermostat whch only has the two wires :? Anyway looks like you connect to terminals 1 and 3- common and call for heat.

What make of thermostat have you got? Is it a mains voltage one? Makes a difference to the fitting. Have you considered TRV`s- Thermostatic Radiator Valves? Much more efficient as you control the heat in each room. :) Does away with the need for a room thermostat- but still a load of hassle...

Yes you can use the one cable BUT it must be one continuous piece of cable- i.e. NO JOINS. Take the cable to the first pipe and strip off a short length of insulation to wrap the cable round the clamp screw and then take the cable onto the other pipe. Hope this helps :D

Let`s try and actually help Lorn shall we? :) Have you looked at the wires in the switch for the light. What colours are there?