Known as Street elbows or stem elbows. Ive sometimes wanted one with a longer tube as there's a gap between max distance with a street and min distance with with a standard elbow. Just something you have to work around if you don't have a pipe bender, soldering skills etc.
Towel rad valve help
- Thread starter aveatry
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Ive got the kit and (some ) skills to solder and was going to use the yorkshire ones as they have a longer street but am opting for compression because although they are buliker you can get them in chrome I can rad snap the pipe in chrome or white but then you still have to do something with the elbows, radsnaps really do need to bring out an elbow cover.
And I am hoping that once I have turned off both sides of the rest of the upstairs rads and released the 1.5bar pressure I can take off the old and fit new without draining anything down at all-- other than what came out to release the pressure. So there may well be water near the top of my pipe meaning I canot solder so compression fitting.
Am I right in thinking this that I can do it by traping the rest of the rads water in themselves.
I once changed a valve with the rad full of water as with the bleed valve shut not much was coming out, although this time i am working the other side of the valve
And I am hoping that once I have turned off both sides of the rest of the upstairs rads and released the 1.5bar pressure I can take off the old and fit new without draining anything down at all-- other than what came out to release the pressure. So there may well be water near the top of my pipe meaning I canot solder so compression fitting.
Am I right in thinking this that I can do it by traping the rest of the rads water in themselves.
I once changed a valve with the rad full of water as with the bleed valve shut not much was coming out, although this time i am working the other side of the valve
Personally I'd drain down partially so the water is out of the pipes, closing the valves on the other upstairs rads to conserve inhibitor. Don't forget to count the number of turns on the lockshield valves to restore balance...
Im thinking when i loosen the old valves and catch the water any pipes higher than the ones im working on will be included in the water comming out and that should be all
By the way I dont really know what I am doing !
Good tip but I had the whole system boiler and new rads replaced about 5 years ago and as far as i know all lockshields are on full and the trvs on the other end do the rest, i dont recall anything about balancing, guess I will find out when i fit my 1800x500 towel rad
The inhibitor in there at the moment is
SCALEMASTER SM-1 -
So I may well get some more to compensate for the new rad as it says you canot over dose
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Basically to hold water in a depressurised system you need to only open one end at once! Far safer to drain down if you're not too sure of what you're doing.
Theres an faq on this site for the balancing, I don't follow it though anymore, I've done it enough times now to be able to get a good balance by feel.
Theres an faq on this site for the balancing, I don't follow it though anymore, I've done it enough times now to be able to get a good balance by feel.
What do you mean by that (sorry) are you saying I only need to shut off one side of the other rads
Please don't take this personally, but that's quite a basic concept, so I think you really should drain down to first floor level to avoid a flood.
But to explain, if you have two open ends in a system full of water, if air can get into connection 1 then water will come out of connection 2.
Bit like the old trick of holding a piece of cardboard on an upside down glass of water - if you were to drill a hole in the glass the water would go everywhere.
If you're going to add inhibitor on refilling (which your really should) it won't matter anyway if you let all the water out of the system as long as the drained water doesn't end up where it shouldn't.
But to explain, if you have two open ends in a system full of water, if air can get into connection 1 then water will come out of connection 2.
Bit like the old trick of holding a piece of cardboard on an upside down glass of water - if you were to drill a hole in the glass the water would go everywhere.
If you're going to add inhibitor on refilling (which your really should) it won't matter anyway if you let all the water out of the system as long as the drained water doesn't end up where it shouldn't.
No I understand all of that and thats why I said close of both ends of the other rads but it seems you were saying it would hold with only one side closed
Yes but we are upstairs and the other upstairs rads will be off so only water from any pipes higher than what I am working on will come out wont it ?? and I think this one has the highest positioned valves upstairs.
Ok I have now done the job and here are the pictures, I needed to go out but because a elbow and a valve added up to further than I needed to go I had to go to the right to take the extra but because going to the left right would mean getting closeer to a loo i could only go right but as there was a door i needed the valve to be pointing down, hope that all this helps some one else in the future, it was finding the compression street elbow that was the key to a neat job I think
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