20A DP Switch

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I'm building a shelving / cupboard unit for my TV / DVD player / Sky box etc. It'll have holes in the back allowing the stuff to be plugged into sockets, which I'm about to install. I was planning to extend the existing ring main.

I want to have a switch allowing me to turn off all equipment, in a similar way to my 20A DP switch in the kitchen isolates the 13A socket under the worktop for the washing machine. However in this case I'd like one switch to isolate 3-ish double sockets.

I assume I can't connect three sockets to the load side of one 20A switch. So what is the correct way of doing this?

(And can one 20A switch be used to isolate a double socket, which (am I right in saying) is rated at 2x13A=26A??)

Many thanks.
Dan
 
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use a switched fused connection unit instead of a DP switch.

You have then created a fused spur, you can put as many sockets on it as you want (but total load not more than 13A which is the fuse in the FCU.

And you are wrong - a double socket is rated at 13A not 26A :eek: and it can be switched with a 20A DP switch.

p.s. a much cheaper, easier and more popular method to supply the AV stack is to use a multiway extension
 
Even I ran out of sockets under my desk ;) :LOL:


sockets.jpg
 
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Why are there so many plugs under your desk RF :?:
computer base or 2
laptop PSU
printer
speakers
television
ipod charger
signal booster
monitor or 2
desk light
UPS
scanner
router
modem
switch
hard drive
games console

and rob, you havent run out, theres 2 spare! :LOL:
 
You're actually not far off :LOL:


Cordless phone charger
Cordless mouse charger
Speakers
TV booster / splitter
Ipod charger
Printer
Monitor no. 1 signal splitter
Desk light

UPS:
DVR for CCTV
CCTV monitor
CCTV PTZ controller
CCTV cameras supply
PC
PC monitor no. 1
PC monitor no. 2

etc... ;)
 
Cordless mouse charger
So instead of a mouse with a cable going to your computer, you have a mouse which needs (or at any rate gets) a cable permanently going to a wall-wart.

Which I'll bet is permanently on standby when not actually in use... ;)
 
Cordless mouse charger
So instead of a mouse with a cable going to your computer, you have a mouse which needs (or at any rate gets) a cable permanently going to a wall-wart.

Which I'll bet is permanently on standby when not actually in use... ;)

My cordless mouse is the same with a charger to recharge the 2 rechargable batteries in the mouse, but I ownly turn the mouse charger wall-wart on when it is needed to recharge the mouse.
 
My cordless mouse is by microsoft. It lasts about 4 months with good batteries. It is non-rechargeable. But 4 months, average use 3 hours per day, is pretty good! :D
 
My cordless mouse is by microsoft. It lasts about 4 months with good batteries. It is non-rechargeable. But 4 months, average use 3 hours per day, is pretty good! :D
As I find that if I get further away from my PC than the length of a mouse cable I can't reach the keyboard any more, I'm quite happy with a mouse that doesn't use any batteries, and therefore doesn't create a toxic waste disposal problem....
 
As I find that if I get further away from my PC than the length of a mouse cable I can't reach the keyboard any more, I'm quite happy with a mouse that doesn't use any batteries, and therefore doesn't create a toxic waste disposal problem....
I hate mice with wires. Its un-natural! :LOL: And having a wire trailing across my desktop is so unsightly! As is the pile of insurance docs currently sitting on it :LOL:
 

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