Advice appreciated on boxing in a Baxi 50 OF boiler

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Hi again folks,

Advice appreciated on this problem. Apologies in advance for length of post, and if it is in incorrect forum, but I reckon I needed the advice of a central heating expert, although the job may be more of a carpentry one.

I have a Baxi 50 OF boiler sited in the corner of my utility room, which itself is off the kitchen, basically in the rear half of the garage.

The idea is to box in this boiler, and kit the room out with some units etc, just to make it a bit more user friendly.

I need advice on the construction of something suitable to cover the boiler. Ideally I'd like the boiler itself and the flue covered somehow.

I have read on the baxi site (where I downloaded user guidelines), that it specifies that I must have at least 5mm gap at front of boiler, during operation and 400mm for servicing. Thus I propose to build a frame with no less than 5mm gap, with either a door or a panel with simple catches which could be removed in its entirety to allow for servicing. Once removed the door/panel would give at least the required 400mm gap.

This frame would extend to the wall to the left of the boiler (see pic). If this idea all seems in order so far, how would I vent such a space? I have read that I would need high and low vents of 176cm2 and 353cm2 respectively, but exactly what is classed as high and low? For example, is 'low' near the bottom of boiler and high, level with the top of boiler? Or should I extend cupboard/frame/door right up to ceiling, thus encassing the whole boiler and flue, and therefore the top vent near to the ceiling? Also, are there any specific regs/guidlines about what the construction materials should be, or is mdf and the like ok?

As you can see I'm somewhat confused about how to proceed, in fact, possibly best thing I can do is post the pictures and hope that one of you more knowlegable folks will suggest something, in tems of construction/materials and venting requirements.

Thanks to anyone who managed to reach the each of this post, and stay awake, and big thanks in advance to anyone who has any idea on how and what to build! :)

utility11.jpg

utility21.jpg

utility31.jpg


Quick idea of something I was thinking of :-
utilityexample.jpg


Cheers all :D
 
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you cant box in open flue appliances when it gives you ventilation requirements for compartment ventilation it means obviously what it says a compartment which would be all the way to the ceiling and the vents would be from the top and one at the bottom which is 10cm2 per kw input (net) and 20 low level and also its really not a diy job if you value your life that is
 
Thanks m8, I understand now that it's either all or nothing, Ie boxed in to ceiling or not at all. Thanks.

What about construction of cupboard, mdf ok? Or does it need to be something more 'fireproof'?

Sorry if the above question has an obvious answer :oops:

Just want to be sure!

Thanks again for any comments


Edit: Just noticed the 'value your life bit' at the end :eek: What exactly are the implications in safety terms here, is it the ventilation issues or is there a risk of fire with the wooden frame?
 
gairloch said:
Thanks m8, I understand now that it's either all or nothing, Ie boxed in to ceiling or not at all. Thanks.

What about construction of cupboard, mdf ok? Or does it need to be something more 'fireproof'?

Sorry if the above question has an obvious answer :oops:

Just want to be sure!

Thanks again for any comments


Edit: Just noticed the 'value your life bit' at the end :eek: What exactly are the implications in safety terms here, is it the ventilation issues or is there a risk of fire with the wooden frame?

what is mdf
 
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Personally I would fit the compartment floor to ceiling. The lower vent is a cooling and combustion air vent the higher one for cooling. You need to bear in mind that you may also need to increase any vent on an intermediate wall if it doesn't vent straight to outside. You will also need to meet manufacturer's instructions on clearances for servicing. The instructions should also give you clearances to combustible materials if you plan on using mdf.
 
Thanks for the tips Ollski, will check into the user manual again. :D
 
you cant box in open flue appliances when it gives you ventilation requirements for compartment ventilation it means obviously what it says a compartment which would be all the way to the ceiling
b*******s :rolleyes:
 
Any thoughts Kev?

You helped me out with the tumble dryer vent, fancy going for two in a row? :?: :?: :) :)

Thanks to all! :D
 
b*******s :rolleyes:

Agree with kev here.

See boiler insructions re distances from combustible materials - if it makes restrictions.
Personally I'd box the boiler itself, with a louvre door and plenty of space inside. Often it's best if they're screwed together in case the top say needs to be removed at some point.
You're getting heat from the flue - is it worth boxing it?
 
Chris i think you will find the powers at be have now decided a louvre door is not acceptable anymore and want purpose made vents, sheer bloody nonsense.
 
Jeez. The smaller slot dimension has to between 6mm (I think) and 10mm,
I suppose they say a louvre door is only one vent!
They used to say you could cut a bit off the bottom of a door...
 
Thanks guys, will check manual again re distance from combustable materials, but if all ok there, you think it ok to box in boiler only (makes sense not to box in flue after what you said about getting heat from it)?

So a boxed in (cupboard) effect with solid front door/removable panel with top and bottom vent (in roughly locations that I indicated on picture), plenty of room at sides, and worktop on top (possibly with a vent also?) made out of mdf would be ok?

A lot of questions, i know, but I do value your opinions guys. :)

Thanks again
 
Firstly can I complement this poster in giving full information and pictures so we can all comprehend your situation.

You are addressing several aspects with the one simple question. It can be broken down to several points.

1. Adequate clearance from boiler to combustible material.

2. Adequate ventilation.

3. Adequate combustion air.

4. Adequate cooling flow around the boiler.

5. Adequate maintenance access.

I am sometimes at variance with others on the requirements so take this as my understanding rather than the regulations and manufacturers requirements. For example I was under the impression that you could not site an OF boiler in a garage but I was told that whilst not good practice it is not actually prohibited ( any more ).

Generally you will in my view meet most of the requirements if you use MDF and have a minimum clearance of 150 mm from the boiler and flue.

It is essential in my view to have the top removable for access.

Ventilation should be at the top and bottom of the compartment vertical sides and just boxing the boiler would be acceptable in my view.

Most important is that you have adequate combustion air from the OUTSIDE !!!

In my view the system should be checked for flow and spillage after you have done your boxing by a CORGI registered engineer.

Tony Glazier
 

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