Advice on how best to cut holes for new double plug sockets

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Hi Guys,

hoping for some quick advice on best practice before I get going on the weekend. Plannign to install 4 double plug sockets into a room I'm refurbing. I will place these 400 - 450mm above the floor (to the bottom of the socket).

What's the best way to cut/chase these int othe wall? I don't have a chasing machine, but have the hammer drill with sds chisel bits. Can I simply trace the outline of the socket backing onto the brickwork and then use a 40mm wide chisel bit or is it best advised to use the old angle grinder for the edges and then chisel out the middle?

Also how wide and best to chisel out the chasing downwards into the floor boards for the cabling?

Any advice would be a great help.

thanks
 
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i used a diamond blade 4 1/2in angle grinder to cut the slots and then chiseled out the rest.
 
Drill and 2" bolster. Do you really want all the dust,all over the place from a grinder?

You don't need to chase the wall for the cable, only the plaster - so a bolster chisel will do

I don't know why you are installing to 400-450mm if the other sockets in the property are not this high
 
Am I free to install the sockets at any height I want? All existing sockets are ancient and installed on the skirting boards. I'd be happier installign them about 20mm. What the standard for older regs.. not new builds?
 
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If I remember correctly, when I installed some sockets in 2004 the regs were not less than 150mm from the floor level. I find it more convenient than directly on top of the skirting boards.

I use this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-SOCKET-BA...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item255ddaa404 to cut for the backboxes in solid walls. The result is very neat and it is easier to regulate the debt of the recess. There is a bigger version of the tool available but it depends on the spec of your SDS drill.[/url]
 
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If I remember correctly, when I installed some sockets in 2004 the regs were not less than 150mm from the floor level. I find it more convenient than directly on top of the skirting boards.

I use this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-SOCKET-BA...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item255ddaa404 to cut for the backboxes in solid walls. The result is very neat and it is easier to regulate the debt of the recess. There is a bigger version of the tool available but it depends on the spec of your SDS drill.[/url]
Damn i just cut 7 socket double holes and conduit chases out with a angle grinder and dust sheets. Wish i new about that tool before
 
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The last posting leads on to another question. Do I need to have conduit from a socket downwards, or can I simply plaster over insulated cable? How deep should these be?
 
The tool makes some dust but it is nowhere near the dust made by an angle grinder.

It is possible to plaster over the cables but I put them in a conduit. If anything needs replacement later, it would make my life easier to a certain extent. Apart of that in one of my topics the professional electricians told horror stories about plasterers cutting cables protruding from the backboxes flash with the wall, filling the backboxes completely with plaster so they can't be found, etc. //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=250158

I put the conduit just deep enaugh to hide in the wall. Often it is ok just to chop the plaster off, in rare ocasions it is necessary to chisel the bricks/blocks, if the plaster is not thick enaugh.[/url]
 
I bet you don't get many boxes done in engineering brick with that thing!

SDS dril and chisel bit for me

SB
 
I bet you don't get many boxes done in engineering brick with that thing!

SDS dril and chisel bit for me

SB

Small print ;)

Specifically designed for use in breeze block and similar soft abrasive materials, it will cut harder materials such as brick but this will wear the tool out much quicker and may lead to fracture (THIS IS AT YOUR OWN RISK).
 
I bet you don't get many boxes done in engineering brick with that thing!

SDS dril and chisel bit for me

SB

Small print ;)

Specifically designed for use in breeze block and similar soft abrasive materials, it will cut harder materials such as brick but this will wear the tool out much quicker and may lead to fracture (THIS IS AT YOUR OWN RISK).

pretty useless for everyday use then.
 
Unless otherwise advised, Sparkbird hereby agrees to spend a weekend with me filled with debauchery and unspeakable perversions at a venue of my choosing. I will provide tarpaulins and clingfilm, she will bring her own Marigolds and Swarfega.
 
Unless otherwise advised, Sparkbird hereby agrees to spend a weekend with me filled with debauchery and unspeakable perversions at a venue of my choosing. I will provide tarpaulins and clingfilm, she will bring her own Marigolds and Swarfega.

Oo er...!
 

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