Advice please Pic's Included

[dylanh]

Hi,

Im currently getting my Kitchen knocked down and rebuilt and I'm also getting my Consumer Unit moved to a new location in my kitchen, by my local sparky.

In order to save money after the CU move, I am going to chase the walls and fit the patress boxes cables etc, and when finished he is going to come back and complete the final connection back to the CU and test the wiring.

Below is a diagram of what I intend to do (my sparky hasn't seen this yet)
Does this look right to you guys? Please post comments. Also what would I use for the connections I have marked on the diagram?

 

[Gaz the Sparky]

To wire a ring main you go out of the consumer unit with a 2.5 to the first socket then out of that on to the next on and so on then from the final socket you take a 2.5 mm cable back to the consumer unit. you do all the connections in the back of the sockets.

It might be best if you get your sparky to carry out all the work

don't forget that Part P applys

G.T.S

//www.diynot.com/wiki/http:rin...et-circuits:a1-ring-final-circuit&cache=cache

 

[dylanh]

You mean like this?

If I do it this way then yup the sparky will do all the connecting.

 

[RF Lighting]

Will the sockets for the extractor hood and gas hob remain readily accessible?

If not you will also need to include an accessible isolator for these.


<edit> I prefer my drawing, but either is ok

 

[Gaz the Sparky]

Thats it but sparkys aren't supposed to certify work that isnt theres so it will be up to him whether he is prepared to sign your work of as his.

G.T.S

 

[dylanh]

The extractor will have a plug and socket up above a wall hanging kitchen cuboard, and the Gas hob will probably have the same inside a kitchen base cuboard. does that sound resonable? I'm just sounding you guys out at the moment I will however be following the instructions given to me by my sparky when we sit down and chat about this. Once again, I am just doing the chasing and putting the cables in place, he will be doing all the connections and testing.

 

[Taylortwocities]

You don't say what the cooker is. Y
ou will need an isolation switch sited within 2 metres of the cooker.

 

[Steve]

Also, you say "cooker socket" please, do not fit a cooker switch with built in socket! Fit a plain 45 amp switch, and an outlet on the wall below.

 

[Taylortwocities]

We need to know what the cooker is though. Maybe OK for a 13A socket if its a single oven and rated under 3KW. Still needs isolator though......

 

[TicklyT]

You will need to keep all the concealed cables in the safe zones as well, i.e. within the width or height of the sockets.

 

[briwire]

As already stated, don't use junction boxes as on your original drawing, terminate the cables actually at the sockets.

Why not use spurs for the Gas Hob and extractor fans. For the power they are taking, you don't really need it to be on ring. Just spur off the nearest sockets, and mount them close to the appliance, or cut out the back of the kitchen units if they are low down so you can get at them if necessary.

 

[RF Lighting]

Why would you want to have spurs on a brand new installation?

 

[Space cat]

Why would you want to have spurs on a brand new installation?

I second that. Putting spurs in now will restrict your ability to add spurs later. Cable is cheap. Keep your options open.