are crimps allowed on ring main

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hi all....i am new to this site but need some info on a ring main......i am trying to extend a ring main in the kitchen by adding two extra double sockets.....the existing cables are awkward to get to (behind the tiles) to add a junction box....is it allowed by regs to join the cables together using crimps.....
 
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i think you will find that as long as the crimps are in the zone, then that is fine . You dont need to have access to them and you can just plaster or tile over them
 
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thanks for your reply.....i am taking a supply from one of the sockets taking it to two extra double sockets and then crimping the return back at the original socket or can i just connect at the original socket which would mean it has 4 sets of cables in it...(which is like a ring within a ring)....
 
sijaysee said:
i think you will find that as long as the crimps are in the zone, then that is fine . You dont need to have access to them and you can just plaster or tile over them

What I was getting at is don't cut and crimp T&E, tape it up then shove in wall and plaster over - that's dog rough (imo)- wasn't disputing the fact the method of joining being ok

Crimping in the socket is ok - do as you mentioned first and crimp the ring return
 
you dont have to crimp in the socket....what if the cable was too short? Jinj, if the joint was in the wall, what would you do with it?
 
I would sink a box in the wall and crimp in there - blank plate over box - any future faults could be found that way
 
the_jinj said:
I would sink a box in the wall and crimp in there - blank plate over box - any future faults could be found that way
Good stuff - a nice neat job you can be proud of.

(p.s. insulating tape tends to some unravelled when it gets old - sleeving is better)
 
JohnD said:
the_jinj said:
I would sink a box in the wall and crimp in there - blank plate over box - any future faults could be found that way
Good stuff - a nice neat job you can be proud of.

(p.s. insulating tape tends to some unravelled when it gets old - sleeving is better)

Just beats sticking jointed cables in walls - any joint has the chance to go bad and to give a spark a fighting chance he'll need access (and a clue where that joint is)!!
 
the crimped cables dont NEED to be accessible do they....obviously once plastered over they wouldnt be...so in this case is it bad practise to do it this way or is the correct method to sink an extra box in and crimp there....sorry guys, just trying to find the right way of doing it.....thanks
 
They don't need to be accessible......if your going to sink the cable - make sure those joints are right.
IMHO for what it's worth, wherever possible I would have the joints accessible, crimped or not, but that's just me. :)

Good luck whichever way you do it!

EDIT: and remember to use heatshrink sleeving as JohnD mentioned :)
 
Crimps haven't got to be acessible; they are one of the permanent methods of jointing which are permitted where they can't be maintained. But they need something equivalent to sheathing, don't just tape them up and plaster over them.

The blanked box is one good way, I suppose you could use oval conduit between the old and new accessory box wuth the joined length inside it.

A cunning trick is to put a new accessory box with the joint inside it, and mount a new socket or spur or something. No risk of forgetting where the joint is, and you end up with another useful outlet.
 
rastan said:
or can i just connect at the original socket which would mean it has 4 sets of cables in it...(which is like a ring within a ring)....
NO!!!


Absolutely not...
 

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