BCO Inspection results

[ColJack]

he already said this is not an option since the missus don't know how to change a plug yet alone unwire and re-wire a fridge into a flex outlet...

also I would stick with the switched fused spur above the counter for quick isolation should a fault occur..

if you thought he had just DP switches above the counter then naughty boys... if you're gonna spur off a ring, use a FCU unless your spur is in 4mm..

 

[securespark]

if you thought he had just DP switches above the counter then naughty boys... if you're gonna spur off a ring, use a FCU unless your spur is in 4mm..

 

[didthathurt]

I think it's quite a good idea for the fridge and freezer to be non-RCD protected. If the RCD tripped on day one of your 14 day holiday there'd be a stench in the kitchen when you got back. The RCD is there to stop people getting a shock of lethal proportions, which is why it is only required for sockets liable to power outdoor equipment.

Fred Flinstone 1 BCO 0

 

[dingbat]

if you thought he had just DP switches above the counter then naughty boys... if you're gonna spur off a ring, use a FCU unless your spur is in 4mm..

As Simon has 'said',

There is absolutely nothing wrong with DP isolators feeding single accessories on 2.5 sq mm cable.

 

[ColJack]

possibility for 32 amps down a cable rated for 27Amps..

fused spur cuts it down to 13A..

I was refering to the flex outlet plates mentioned, wihich would not be fused..

 

[JohnD]

I think we said, flex outlets below with FCUs above.

We usually prefer 20A DP switches above, feeding single 13A sockets below.

Either way there is one fuse each.

 

[pcboffinuk]

possibility for 32 amps down a cable rated for 27Amps..

How exactly? Running one single or double socket in 2.5 as a spur from a 32A ring is a perfectly valid recognised method. In the absolute worst case scenario, the most you could plug into a double socket would be 2 13A plugs = 26A.

I can't think of a likely scenario where this could happen (2 x 3kw fires at full pelt are a bit unlikely unless you are extremely cold blooded!) and most double sockets are only rated to 13A in any case.

Gavin

 

[ColJack]

Fred wrote:

I explained that I would be more than happy to use a flex outlet for each instead

JohnD wrote:

I was thinking a cheap remedy would be to use flex outlet plates, and cut the plugs off. In this case you would need to use an FCU, not a switch,

lead me to believe that you thought he was putting flex outlets from DP switches and were putting him right...

my bad..



PCbofin,

I said:

I was refering to the flex outlet plates mentioned, wihich would not be fused..

meaning you could wire an un-fused item requiring more than 27A to it into the flex outlet..
up to 32A which would trip the breaker..

 

[pcboffinuk]

Coljack,

Right, saw your post immediately after I posted mine Ignore my previous post.

Mind you, what are flex outlets rated at? I'd suspect a lot less than 27A so it would probably melt before the breaker tripped?

Gavin

 

[JohnD]

flex outlets nominally 13A, but should be protected with a 13A or lower fuse, normally at an FCU (melting is not a preferred way of dealing with overloads

 

[securespark]

Unless you're a fuse.....

 

[steve1811uk]

Fred, I spoke to my BCO today. Regarding the new CU I am fitting he said that he would inspect that at 2nd fix. He told me to wire everything up but then do not energise until he turns up and tests. He also said that if it's not right then he would place some kind of building notice on it prohibiting me from switching my electric back on !Kind chap! Mind you that was after the LABC tried to tell me that I would have to get a PIR out of my own pocket which they later backtracked on when I quoted the exact wording from Part P.

 

[JohnD]

...He also said that if it's not right then he would place some kind of building notice on it prohibiting me from switching my electric back on.

You might like to consider fitting a 100A DP isolator, and a Henley Block, with a secondary CU feeding nothing but a 20A 2.5mm radial to a double socket and a 6A feeding a working lamp in your meter cupboard. this can be very useful when you're working on the electrics of the main CU and gives you somewhere to plug in your tools and kettle. You would have to be very careless to make an error in such a simple installation, so it would be difficult for anyone to find a reason to prevent you having it energised. Incidentally, it is not notifiable work to add extra sockets or lamps onto such a circuit later.