Biasi Garda HE d.h.w lights flashing and NO Central Heating!

[chrisgatguis]

Hi there,

our central heating has stopped working completely, have reset the timer, checked the thermostat is set etc.

Hot water is still working completely as it should be when needed.

The main syptoms / indications I have are that when all hot water taps are OFF, AND heating ON or OFF (i.e. in either JUST d.h.w mode OR d.h.w + C.H mode) we have lights 1 and 3 flashing alternately.

This is the usual code that comes on when normal hot water is being demanded and used. - but to re iterate this is the code I'm seeing at all times unless boiler is turned off. - (I've checked no taps are on!)


During this period the boiler isn't lit/ fired up however there is a noise which I suspect is something like a Fan or a pump - its the same noise that you get when you are using central heating normally when the temperature within the boiler has reached the set value and therefore stops the flame for a short period untill it needs to be re ignited.


No matter what I try I cannot get the central heating to come on.

I've felt the pipes under the boiler and the far left pipe which i believe to be the c.h pipe is not warm, the very top of it is marginally 'not cold' but maybe it is just taking heat from the d.h.w pipe which is next to it?



the pressure on my gauge is 1.1 as the manual suggests.

does anyone know if there is anything I can do to test various things? we have previously (over a year ago) had a replacement c.h. temp probe but the symptoms were totally different from the above!

greatly appreciate any advise.

thanks
Chris

 

[chrisgatguis]

more info: there is a small red LED light on towards the back / top of the main circuit board. this light is on at all times

Thanks
Chris

 

[chrisgatguis]

Hi,

Bit more info, I suspect its something to do with the divertor valve.

In the manual one of the descriptions of a fault is "in C.H mode the main temperature reaches 75 degrees but the heating does not work. D.H.W operation performs as normal"

There are only two possible causes - one being the diverter one being the PCB.

Is there any tests I can try to confirm it is / isn't the divertor?

Thanks
Chris

 

[chrisgatguis]

bump

 

[Agile]

Hi,

There are only two possible causes - one being the diverter one being the PCB.

Thanks
Chris

You clearly know everything about boilers so that you can make that bold statement above.

You obviously dont want to employ a boiler engineer who would know how to fix your boiler!

Presumably you never get your boiler serviced either ( or maybe you do that yourself? )

 

[chrisgatguis]

Hi,

There are only two possible causes - one being the diverter one being the PCB.

Thanks
Chris

You clearly know everything about boilers so that you can make that bold statement above.

You obviously dont want to employ a boiler engineer who would know how to fix your boiler!

Presumably you never get your boiler serviced either ( or maybe you do that yourself? )

Hi,

There are only two possible causes - one being the diverter one being the PCB.

Thanks
Chris

You clearly know everything about boilers so that you can make that bold statement above.

You obviously dont want to employ a boiler engineer who would know how to fix your boiler!

Presumably you never get your boiler serviced either ( or maybe you do that yourself? )

Wow, now this post really does take the buscuit, I look at the number of posts you have made and feel sorry for all the people you will have no doubt replied to in the same manner.

Number 1 - DO NOT MISS QUOTE people... who gave you permission to re order what I had previously written to show a fraction of my post in a missleading way? what I wrote was meant to be leading on from the previous sentence i.e. this was straight out of the instruction manual and was not my "bold statement" simply me relating what the boiler manual stated in tabular format with various sytoms listed and quote "Components to check" against the 'Defect'.

Number 2 - YES I do in deed have a boiler engineer working on the boiler and I called him as soon as I had a remotely rough idea of what to tell him on the phone, i.e. here is a description of the problem, and this is what the manual tells me however thats just me reading it off the page and obviously he would have to identify what the issue was /is.. The reason I opened the thread and what I wanted to avoid was me not identifying a problem such as the boiler not being set up correctly, with low pressure and or a very simple problem causing the issue.... I do not want to waste the boiler engineers time, the one in question that I used has a LOT of work on (I know other customers).

Number 3 - No I do not service my own boiler, and you are correct in that I have never had it serviced; This is my first house, I have had one other issue with the boiler since I have lived here. This may be alien to someone like youself who flames (and miss quotes) someone on a whim and at the drop of a hat, but NOT EVERYONE knows EVERYTHING about this kind of thing. You may not also be aware that people learn from experiences in life and THEREFORE - a SUGGESTION rather than a cocky comment would probably (certainly in my case) be more useful i.e.

"Oh, well its possible that this could be from X, this could be related to Y and you could avoid this by servicing your boiler more regularly, has the boiler ever been serviced? And I would definitely advise on getting a proffesional in at this stage"


I also replied on another thread in this forum and didn't get the most helpful reply from them either, however it wasn't as bad as this one... oh wait I just went to check the thread and look who it was:
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=242291


Can you let me know why it is that I see this kind of thing all the time on other forums of this type also? someone asks a genuine question, then just simply gets flamed.

Because you are a Gas Safe proffesional and are in the trade does not remove my human right to be inquisitive, certainly does not stop me from enquiring on an online forum, discussing my issue with proffesionals. Just because I do not have any certification does not mean that I am incapable of understanding or contemplating how something works.

Your approach and the 'tone' in your email is the exact type of thing that makes people like me worried about getting in a proffesional and has the exact opposite effect than what I expect you wanted. If I knew who you were, and rang up for a job and you turned up your email ALONE would make me not want you there.



THANKS
Chris

 

[Agile]

All you ever needed to do is tell a competent engineer what the three lights are showing and he will know exactly what is wrong.

It just complicates the situation if you try to work out whats wrong yourself. thats the engineer's job.

There are three versions of the inside parts which are at fault. All can be fixed reasonably easily although the early ones can take over an hour. As a guide we would usually fix it for under 100 pounds.

I realise that you think that plumbers are ignorant and you can easily diagnose the fault with the book but you have not been able to do so.

Just let the engineer do his job!

Tony