Central Heating Bypass Pipe?

[James Holland]

Hi Agile,

Thanks for your reply, that's why I'm here to get an understanding!

The order of my diagram is correct, the spacing may not be, but everything is within approx. 30cm of pipe work to each other except the boiler which is approx. 5m on each the feed and return away from the airing cupboard where everything else is located.

I'm pretty clear that I could do with an automatic bypass valve on the bypass pipe, and from what I understand the order of my returns isn't quite correct, but as they're all within a total of approx. 40cm of pipe work, how much difference does it make?

Could you explain the significance of the exact positioning please?

 

[Terry lambert]

This one is shown as both returns at the same point on his drawing.

I would say that would work fine if it really was like that.

BUT the OP will not understand the very important significance of the exact positioning of the actual return connections!

How do you mean both returns at the same point? In the drawing, If the cylinder/ bypass connected in where the heating is and the heating where the cylinder/ bypass was, then there wouldn't be a problem. It doesn't matter in regards to how closely together they are or how close to the boiler the connection is.

 

[mrgas]

Hey OP, what is the problem with your set up?
What is happening that shouldn't be?
Why are you so concerned?

 

[James Holland]

Hi mrgas,

Thanks for your message. My concern is over very high heating bills and that the house doesn't get warm when it's very cold outside.

The house is modern (built 2005) the boiler is a Potterton Promax 24 HE, but bills are more than double what they were in out old house.

I've invested in a Tado smart thermostat (I know this won't help the above) and I plan on doing a power flush and adding a mag filter.

My main concern is that much of the flow is going straight through the bypass.

May also be worth mentioning that pipe work from boiler is 28mm, drops to 22mm after pump and then micro bore the final part to radiators.

What do you think?

 

[Agile]

The microbore tube may be limiting the flow to the rads! Is it 10 mm or smaller?

The bypass only returns hot CH water to the boiler but does not lose heat so has no effect on gas consumption. That can cause the boiler to prematurely shut down on reaching the set flow temperature and then stay off for an anticycling delay. That's why you need an auto bypass set to about 3 m.

Tony

 

[Bunnyman]

Op please listen to everyone but not tony, he's a lovely bloke but is lacking experiece

 

[D_Hailsham]

Op please listen to everyone but not tony, he's a lovely bloke but is lacking experiece

So which bit of Tony's last post do you disagree with?

 

[Bunnyman]

Most of it

 

[D_Hailsham]

Most of it

So what is wrong with "The microbore tube may be limiting the flow to the rads! Is it 10 mm or smaller?"?

And are you saying Tony is wrong when he says "The bypass only returns hot CH water to the boiler but does not lose heat so has no effect on gas consumption. That can cause the boiler to prematurely shut down on reaching the set flow temperature and then stay off for an anticycling delay. That's why you need an auto bypass set to about 3 m."?

If so, please explain where Tony is wrong.

 

[Bunnyman]

I think it is correctly drawn and could work, but the bypass pipe should either be very small bore like 10 mm or should have some kind of valve on it.

Tony

???? This one not the last one