Central heating problem
- Thread starter diycooper
- Start date
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gas4you said:Not wanting to sound rude, but if 'c' comes on but boiler doesnt fire up (no white steady light next to 'c'), then even a layman should be able to tell this
I must say Dave that this problem doesnt seem that likely to me as if c does come up it would try to ignite at the very least.
if the div valve is gone the the boiler would fire get pretty dam hot and shut down PDQ
if the PCB had gone then you wouldnt get hot water
Really get someone in
Does it have a completely seperate ignition sequence for central heating??
wow thats flasher than I thought Ideal would be, thought they would have saved the few pennies and used the single ignition sequence
could be a duff CH thermister I suppose
but this is pure guess work would really need to lock horns with it as I have the feeling the punter is giving us (through no fault of his/her own) duff info
wow thats flasher than I thought Ideal would be, thought they would have saved the few pennies and used the single ignition sequence
could be a duff CH thermister I suppose
but this is pure guess work would really need to lock horns with it as I have the feeling the punter is giving us (through no fault of his/her own) duff info
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Was the boiler fitted under any energy efficiency scheme such as the A1 scheme in association with Plumb Center? Ask your installer. If so you will have a 2 year warranty on it.
If it wasn't and you registered it with Ideal within the 30 days then you get the basic 12 months plus 3 months extra for registering it, so hopefully it will still be covered.
The last DV I changed cost my customer £230. If the warranty is out see if you can get Ideal out on a chargeable visit it will cost you £175, but I doubt they will do this as they are too busy handling all the warranty calls
If it wasn't and you registered it with Ideal within the 30 days then you get the basic 12 months plus 3 months extra for registering it, so hopefully it will still be covered.
The last DV I changed cost my customer £230. If the warranty is out see if you can get Ideal out on a chargeable visit it will cost you £175, but I doubt they will do this as they are too busy handling all the warranty calls
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If the call is there for CH, 'C' comes up on the display, the boiler fires but the rads dont get hot do the following
1. Check the pump is running - it should be because HW is working.
2. Feel the CH flow pipe (LHS 22mm pipe), is that hot, but only for the first couple of feet? If it is then circulation is severely restricted, probably due to debris in the diverter valve.
If debris is in the DV then it's pretty certain similar will be in the pump and main heat exchanger waterways, and in the primary side of the HW heat exchanger. You can dismantle and physically remove debris from the DV which may give temporary respite, however, for the reasons stated you really need to powerflush the entire system to ensure proper performance.
Sounds like problems from a poor installation.
Heating on in July? What a wimp. (with size 13 carbon feet)
1. Check the pump is running - it should be because HW is working.
2. Feel the CH flow pipe (LHS 22mm pipe), is that hot, but only for the first couple of feet? If it is then circulation is severely restricted, probably due to debris in the diverter valve.
If debris is in the DV then it's pretty certain similar will be in the pump and main heat exchanger waterways, and in the primary side of the HW heat exchanger. You can dismantle and physically remove debris from the DV which may give temporary respite, however, for the reasons stated you really need to powerflush the entire system to ensure proper performance.
Sounds like problems from a poor installation.
Heating on in July? What a wimp. (with size 13 carbon feet)
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If the call is there for CH, 'C' comes up on the display, the boiler fires but the rads dont get hot do the following
1. Check the pump is running - it should be because HW is working.
2. Feel the CH flow pipe (LHS 22mm pipe), is that hot, but only for the first couple of feet? If it is then circulation is severely restricted, probably due to debris in the diverter valve.
If debris is in the DV then it's pretty certain similar will be in the pump and main heat exchanger waterways, and in the primary side of the HW heat exchanger. You can dismantle and physically remove debris from the DV which may give temporary respite, however, for the reasons stated you really need to powerflush the entire system to ensure proper performance.
Sounds like problems from a poor installation.
Heating on in July? What a wimp. (with size 13 carbon feet)
1. Check the pump is running - it should be because HW is working.
2. Feel the CH flow pipe (LHS 22mm pipe), is that hot, but only for the first couple of feet? If it is then circulation is severely restricted, probably due to debris in the diverter valve.
If debris is in the DV then it's pretty certain similar will be in the pump and main heat exchanger waterways, and in the primary side of the HW heat exchanger. You can dismantle and physically remove debris from the DV which may give temporary respite, however, for the reasons stated you really need to powerflush the entire system to ensure proper performance.
Sounds like problems from a poor installation.
Heating on in July? What a wimp. (with size 13 carbon feet)
How would i go about seeing if the DV valve is blocked with debris to remove it?
What should the pressure gauge be on the sytem mine is between the 2-3.
Is that ok ?
Also before this problem happened i could sometimes hear a banging noise in the boiler. And i had removed one off my radiators to do work in the kitchen could it be the chemical to keep the system running smoothly is now low in the system?
What should the pressure gauge be on the sytem mine is between the 2-3.
Is that ok ?
Also before this problem happened i could sometimes hear a banging noise in the boiler. And i had removed one off my radiators to do work in the kitchen could it be the chemical to keep the system running smoothly is now low in the system?
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