Another thing I've noticed whilst stripping out my kitchen is that the flow and return leaves the boiler in 22mm pipe but part of it going through the kitchen is in chunky 28 or 30mm pipe for a couple of meters and then goes back to 22mm. Would this have any effect on the system at all?
Changing and teeing into Flow & return pipe
- Thread starter littlepigeon
- Start date
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No.
And the pump is on the flow btw.
Do you have your boiler manual? It will show you a simple schematic of a heating circuit.
Figure out what you have compared to this, if you don't have the arrangement per the manual make it so, you may as well - seeing as you seem prepared to tackle this yourself.
Will do thanks very much. I think it means moving the pump to the loft somehow 
Ok two last question hopefully....
1 - You point out that this is set up incorrect, but is it this wrongness that will be causing the build up of air in the system? If not what will be the benefits of putting this right? More efficient? Better Flow? or something completely different?
2 - Whilst the original job which has brought all this to a head is the re-routing of some pipe work, one of which is the hot water pipe from the water tank in the loft. is it the done thing to pipe as much of the HW in 22mm to stop getting weak flow at the taps?
Many thanks all for all your help so far, its very much appreciated!
Ok two last question hopefully....
1 - You point out that this is set up incorrect, but is it this wrongness that will be causing the build up of air in the system? If not what will be the benefits of putting this right? More efficient? Better Flow? or something completely different?
2 - Whilst the original job which has brought all this to a head is the re-routing of some pipe work, one of which is the hot water pipe from the water tank in the loft. is it the done thing to pipe as much of the HW in 22mm to stop getting weak flow at the taps?
Many thanks all for all your help so far, its very much appreciated!
littlepigeon";p="2632649 said:Yeah , but I`m in Sussex - the Dead Centre of England
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Its a paint roller long handle I think, you can ignore that one
NigeF and his witty banter has hidden my last two questions... I'd be really grateful if anyone could provide any information with regards to them.
Many thanks all
has hidden my last two questions... I'd be really grateful if anyone could provide any information with regards to them. Many thanks all
NigeF and his witty banter
Many thanks all
1. The benefit of putting it right is that it will be right! It should be a certain way for good reason, most of which have already been explained in this thread.
2. Bath taps are usually in 22mm so that the bath fills faster...
NigeF and his witty banter
Many thanks all
1. The benefit of putting it right is that it will be right! It should be a certain way for good reason, most of which have already been explained in this thread.
2. Bath taps are usually in 22mm so that the bath fills faster...
Cheers Breesy. I do understand that putting it right is the best option but as i'm sure you can understand that having been here almost 3 years now i am just curious as to what the main issues are having only really seeing issues with air in the bathroom radiator and maybe the system being a bit weak at its radiators furthest from the boiler.
I have seen that someone said the boiler could explode like a bomb but no one has confirmed really that the air in the system is caused by this wrong setup which is what I am curious about.
Just to confirm, seen as the plumbers who have worked on the system so far dont seem to understand, the pump should be situated (looking at the picture of my loft) after the cold feed but before the heating and water valves?
Is there any issue with the distance of pipe i have to slot into or could i literally just cut the pipe and insert it in that downward pipe in teh setup at present?
Cheers for your time and help
if you don't sort it you will get air in your system, the air will accelerate corrosion. In several years time you will have nice muddy water eating away at all your expensive heating components and blocking stuff up. Best sort it now, then wonder why everythings going wrong later.
Personally when I'm installing an OV boiler I combine the cold feed and vent. Whoever put that pump there is an idiot. There is no way it can be right.
You don't need an old school plumber, you just need someone with a brain. Correctly installing an OV system is part of any half decent apprenticeship.
As for your boiler, 24kw I bet is too much, and after you've added 4 miles of 22mm pipe you will be lucky if your system will get as much as 15. Whatever you do don't use Speedfit, the max heat carrying capacity is about 13kw on 22mm pipe. So you'd need to use 28mm or better still copper
Personally when I'm installing an OV boiler I combine the cold feed and vent. Whoever put that pump there is an idiot. There is no way it can be right.
You don't need an old school plumber, you just need someone with a brain. Correctly installing an OV system is part of any half decent apprenticeship.
As for your boiler, 24kw I bet is too much, and after you've added 4 miles of 22mm pipe you will be lucky if your system will get as much as 15. Whatever you do don't use Speedfit, the max heat carrying capacity is about 13kw on 22mm pipe. So you'd need to use 28mm or better still copper
Cheers Micky.
When you say its too much, too much for what? For the speedfit pipe? Loads of the system in place at present is already plastic barrier pipe from what i can see.
too much for your house 24kw would run about 15-18 rads comfortably
I do have an old edwardian semi with no cavity and a lot of single glazed windows with every room having an external wall and a few open fires. It's currently running 8 double panel rads, some of which are pretty big. There is also the water tank in the loft to heat also.
Could you explain more on your speedfit comment? I have opted for long runs of speedfit barrier pipe? What will this cause?
Many many thanks
the speedfit inserts reduce the bore of the pipe. if you must use plastic use hep2o, the inserts are thinner. I just finished first fixing a house in SF with 18kw of rads, piped up to the first tee in copper because of the restriction in SF. Your planning on piping the main F+R from a 24kw boiler in a pipe that can only carry half that.
Ahhhhhhgghhh I get you. I'm really not sure I can run 28mm pipe all the way from the boiler to the loft. I'm already really struggling due to the joists in the back bedroom running the wrong way and building regs regarding the notching and drilling of them. .
So much of the flow and return is already in 22mm plastic pipe. What will this be causing, just inefficiency or any kind of damage possible?
So much of the flow and return is already in 22mm plastic pipe. What will this be causing, just inefficiency or any kind of damage possible?
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