Cleaning alternator...

I think its worth taking the valves out, if only to clean up the stems, which will have carbon on them.....the inlets will be softish stuff and the exhausts much harder. Having the valves out makes it easier to fit the oil seals too.
The problem with lapping the valves in is actually turning them with grinding compound applied.....traditionally we use a sucker stuck to the valve face, and oscillate the valve just like we were trying to make fire :p
However.....with the valves in place, pour some petrol or similar into the ports one by one.....if there's significant leakage you'll know what to do!
We now await another art masterpiece courtesy Mr. Whitworth :D
Wishing you both a good weekend!
John :)
 
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Right, proper update later...
For now I'm trying to get the hard stuff off of the exhaust valves and the black sticky tar off of the inlet valves.
Don't have a bench grinder as suggested, can I soak these in spirit of salts overnight? (AKA hydrochloric acid) Cola has been suggested, as has oven cleaner but I can't be arsed to go to the shop. :oops:
 
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How I clean valves up is to, grip the valve stem in a drill chuck, start it spinning on a fast speed and use a strip of emery cloth, preferably 120 grit to clean the crud off, this works really well, and leaves them with a lovely polished finish, it's easier if you can hold the drill in a vice and the drill has a lock on the trigger, but not essential.
 
Takes me back, that one....using the same drill afterwards to lap in the valve seats on the good old BMC cast heads :p
John :)
 
Righto, waited days for a lend of the other type of valve spring compressor, in the end he couldn't find it and thinks he lent it out years ago.

I'm not plumping out £40ish for one so I made a little thingy.

View media item 33143
View media item 33144
Offcut of MPDE water pipe :mrgreen:
Offcut of featheredge to protect the head underside.

Regarding the valves, I'm tempted to stick em in a drill and whizz them in a bucket of soft sand. Are the inlet valves supposed to have a couple of mm of black gungey sh** on them?
 
Good show with the plastic pipe. Good to know there are still people that can think out of the box :D
Black gunk on inlet valves quite common, probably an acumulation of oil from stem seals and recirculated oil vapour. Exhaust valves run hotter so deposits tend to be harder carbon like.
Not sure about the bucket of sand, might not be able to get enough pressure/friction to shift the muck. (give it a go though, nothing ventured nothing gained as they say) The emery cloth/tape sugestion might be your best bet. If you don't have a vice put the drill on the ground on an old piece of carpet or similar and hold it with your foot, just try not to cover the cooling ducts.
Nearly there :D
 
Deluks said:
I'm tempted to stick em in a drill and whizz them in a bucket of soft sand. Are the inlet valves supposed to have a couple of mm of black gungey sh** on them?
Click to expand...

Don't be tempted just give it a go, but i'm fairly certain using sand won't work, emery dose though! only use a little bit of emery at a time, don't let it wrap around the valve, and only take the cack off don't go up the valve stem. It sounds more scary than it is actually doing it. But if you don't feel happy doing it don't.

Also black poo on inlet valves is normal yes.
 
Whitworth said:
Good to know there are still people that can think out of the box :D
Click to expand...

Problem is, I can only think out of the box :unsure:

anyhooo, I have wet n dry, no Emery though.

ooh, you are awful, but I like you!

120 sounds a bit course, are emery grades different from normal alu-oxide paper?
 
Grades should be the same, its all about how many grains per square centimeter. The difference is the abrasive material. If you have aluninium oxide paper use it to get rid of the heavy and polish with the wet and dry. As Tinker says keep away from the sliding area of the stem.
 
Deluks said:
120 sounds a bit course, are emery grades different from normal alu-oxide paper?
Click to expand...

All the grade sizes are all the same, and emery has the same alu oxide grit as wet & dry, it's just bonded to the backing differently. You can use wet & dry but the paper backing will tear very quickly, as opposed to the cloth backing of emery, which is far more durable in this type of situation. If you use anything finer than 120 it will clog up almost instantly, and you'll be supprised at the surface finish 120 gives you, if you really want to you could finish them off with 180, but when you see the finish 120 gives, you probably won't bother.
 
Having a ****e weekend. All went back together meticulously but she won't start up :(
Engine turns over, got spark, triple checked the timing, currently suspect that no fuel is going through. I haven't touched the fuel system apart from disconnecting the throttle body from the head. Closest we got to ignition was when blasting some easy start through the air intake.

About to try and turn it over with spark plugs out and see if any fuel is going in by checking down the holes afterwards with cotton bud or similar. If no juice then what's the best way to diagnose and sort out a no fuel situation? Is it possible to have airlocks in the fuel system?

ps. got fuel in tank, checked fuses.
 
Curiously enough, I had the very same problem on the last Polo I did......fuel system untouched, cranking away merrily etc.
This one did reluctantly start after what seemed to be an age, and seriously the only thing I could think of was the hydraulic valve lifters had to fill up with oil before anything would happen. Maybe yours is the same, or maybe I'm talking cobblers!
John :)
 
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