CONSUMER UNIT REPLACEMENT

[BLUEFUNNEL]

I wish to replace my old fuse board, which is mounted in my garage about 10 feet above ground level, with a new CU.

I want to position the new CU at a more reasonable and reachable height.

Unfortunately, this would necessitate lengthening the cables. Would it be OK to solder on additional cable and insulate with heat shrink, or would it be preferable to use junction boxes?

Is there any minimum height below which a CU should not be positioned?

All suggestions greatlfully received.

 

[JohnD]

A far more satisfactory approach would be to fit new tails to the meter.

Where is the meter in relation to your CU?

You will have to get your electricity supplier to do it, since (of course) you are not allowed to interfere with the meter connections.

CU's are (in UK) supposed to be fitted out of reach of children. However in my view this would also out them out of reach of some disabled people, especially those in wheelchairs, for whom 1200mm is usually considered the maximum height.

Can you post some pics?

 

[electronicsuk]

John,

I think the OP was referring to the outgoing cables to circuits in the house rather than the tails. Remember he wants to move the CU *down*, and his cables are probably running upwards from the CU.

Either way I wouldn't choose soldering, it isn't a very strong form of joint and isn't suitable for this type of work IMO. Thru crimps are the way to go, but you will have to provide mechanical protection of some sort at the point where the cables are joined.

 

[Podooser]

How high is "out of reach of children" or can that mean located in a cupboard thats lockable or utility room with door shut or what. I can't seem to find a reg that states this clearly.

 

[JohnD]

If that is the case, you can lengthen the cables using insulated crimps. You need good ratchet crimpers. Soldering can be done but you will need to put heat-shrink sleeving over the joint. It is also best to put the cables into oval conduit or mini-trunking to give the mechanical protection that the sheathing would normally give (or you can oversleeve with larger heat-shrink).

Do not bundle all the wires together in one big piece of trunking or you will have to calculate reduced capacity due to heating.

 

[Adam_151]

Not sure I'm that keen on crimps in trunking to be completely honest with you John, perhaps an adaptable box where there old board was, and trunking down to the new one would be a better bet

Or even better than an adaptable box with crimp joints in, is a box with a DIN rail in, and din rail terminals fitted

 

[DESL]

Or even better than an adaptable box with crimp joints in, is a box with a DIN rail in, and din rail terminals fitted

Neater and more elegant way to go but a tad expensive

 

[plugwash]

what about just using some big terminal block screwed down inside the box (you can get 60A stuff if you look arround). Din rail terminals seem like overkill.

 

[industryspark]

personally i like the DIN rail solution..... overkill? yeah maybe but it sure as hell is the neat.

have you thought about replacing the leg of each circuit that connects to the CU?-it may or may not be possible, depends how far you want to go really.

imo soldering gives a nice sound joint if done correctly....but the key is making a nice job of it....

thru crimps are adequate but if you do this though try to stagger the joints in each cable so you dont get a big 'clump'.