True.4mm is only rated at 37A if clipped direct.
Which reference method is that?The cable feeding these items will be loose laid
True.4mm is only rated at 37A if clipped direct.
Which reference method is that?The cable feeding these items will be loose laid
I was contemplating using that as an argument but thought it would not be considered free air as such.No, it's not clipped direct, but you could argue it's in free air...
Well, it's 40A for round cable but I don't know where that takes us as it's not mentioned for flat.So what's the free air rating?
... and if you look at 4D2A, where both reference methods are shown, you'll see that for the same cable Ref E gives a higher value than Ref C.Well, it's 40A for round cable but I don't know where that takes us as it's not mentioned for flat.
So what is the maximum current of a cable in free air compared to when "clipped direct" ?No, it's not clipped direct, but you could argue it's in free air
It can't - have a look at the tables.What decides that ( apparently ) clipped direct cable can (safely) carry more current than the same cable in free air. ?
Interestingly, if you look at Table 4A2 at what we call 'clipped direct' (Number 20, Method C) it is actually defined as clipped direct to a wooden or masonary wall OR spaced not more than 0.3 cable diameters from such a wall (e.g. attached with cleats). They are therefore not banking on direct conduction at all in arriving at that Method and one can but presume that it is, indeed, the inteference with 'free convection' resulting from the proximity to a wall which results in the lower CCC than 'in free air'.Why that is the case I don't know, as I would have thought a clippable surface would offer better heat transfer (through conduction) than the natural convection of air. Of course, the problem is that you can't clip cables perfectly flat, so there will likely be a small air gap between the two surfaces which will act as an insulating medium. That, and the fact that they could be clipped to wood as you suggest, are probably the main reasons why free air is 'better'.
Because they are designing for the market which has 16A radials and 16A sockets, and is several times larger than the UK one with its anomalous combination of 32A circuits and 13A sockets.Why don't they just make hobs and ovens that will fit just to a cooker connection unit like when you buy a standalone cooker
Because they are designing for the market which has 16A radials and 16A sockets, and is several times larger than the UK one with its anomalous combination of 32A circuits and 13A sockets.Why don't they just make hobs and ovens that will fit just to a cooker connection unit like when you buy a standalone cooker
We have a weird, out-on-a-limb, nobody-else-does-it-like-that design for socket circuits, and you've hit one of the downsides of that.
and that outlet plate is on a 32A circuit.I have found out that the oven should be protected by a 16amp fuse
Maybe so ,but i don't think anyone in this country would go to all that trouble to fit a 16amp socket ? also one could argue that bosch don't really take the UK in to account when making these hobs.Well - you shouldn't connect it straight to that outlet plate because:
and that outlet plate is on a 32A circuit.I have found out that the oven should be protected by a 16amp fuse
Now - assuming that you don't find that the terminals in the oven are to small to take the size of cable you have to use on a 32A supply, in reality you'd probably get away with it, but there is an outside chance that if something goes wrong inside the oven, and Bosch were relying on the presence of a 16A device to protect their appliance, a hazard could arise and/or you'd find your warranty invalidated.
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