Why does the thermal switch on top of the shower element only trip once and need to be replaced? Is it because of the high KW rating? Could a resettable one not be manufactured/ installed? Any info. appreciated.
Electric showers and thermal switches
- Thread starter Andy165
- Start date
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The thermal cutout is a 'last ditch' safety device that should only operate if there is another fault with the installation that needs correcting before the shower can be used safely.
No doubt a resettable version could be made, but in view of the high currents that would need switching, and the absolute need for reliably, it would increase the price of the shower units, maybe even doubling their price.
A resettable cutout may result in less safe installations, as some users may start relying on it for their protection instead of correcting the flaws in the installation... Then one day the cutout fails to operate - Oh how we laughed in the ambulance all the way to the hospital!
No doubt a resettable version could be made, but in view of the high currents that would need switching, and the absolute need for reliably, it would increase the price of the shower units, maybe even doubling their price.
A resettable cutout may result in less safe installations, as some users may start relying on it for their protection instead of correcting the flaws in the installation... Then one day the cutout fails to operate - Oh how we laughed in the ambulance all the way to the hospital!
what a load of dribble.
electric showers do have 2 stage tco's, mira, triton, galaxy are just a few.
triton one's 1st stage cutout is 57c 2nd stage cutout is 90c.
some are set at different temps.
how do you think a shower cycles on a tco hot/cold when the flow is reduced due to a blocked filter or shower head ?
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By the way, the 2 stage TCOs have two temperature settings - e.g. 57C and 90C as a previous poster says.
At the lower temperature, it switches off the supply but will reset when the water is cooler again (Prevents scalding but causes hot/cold cycling in some cases).
At the higher temperature it cuts out and doesn't reset - the argument being that if it gets that hot there's a safety issue somewhere.
The TCO normally trips if the water flow or pressure drops. e.g.:
- Blocked jets on the shower head - Easily cleaned.
- Shower head pipe kinks, preventing flow - get a new one.
- Blocked inlet filter on shower supply pipe - more of a plumbing job but relatively easy to fix.
- inadequate pressure to shower - could even be caused by someone turning kitchen or outside tap on full bore if overall pressure is low
- Furred-up heating element - would normally require several years of limescale deposits for this to happen and a new element or complete shower would be required
At the lower temperature, it switches off the supply but will reset when the water is cooler again (Prevents scalding but causes hot/cold cycling in some cases).
At the higher temperature it cuts out and doesn't reset - the argument being that if it gets that hot there's a safety issue somewhere.
The TCO normally trips if the water flow or pressure drops. e.g.:
- Blocked jets on the shower head - Easily cleaned.
- Shower head pipe kinks, preventing flow - get a new one.
- Blocked inlet filter on shower supply pipe - more of a plumbing job but relatively easy to fix.
- inadequate pressure to shower - could even be caused by someone turning kitchen or outside tap on full bore if overall pressure is low
- Furred-up heating element - would normally require several years of limescale deposits for this to happen and a new element or complete shower would be required
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