Eu power regulations

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Got a new dishwasher recently - it has an "Eco" programme, which (I'm assuming here) is the one which is used to get it's official A+whatever rating. It's useless, we never use it - always go for one of the other programmes which actually work.
My old dishwasher with Eco, just never used heat on final cycle
Goodness knows what our DW does when on its "Eco" programme, but it takes forever to do it, and doesn't seem to work very well. Like BAS, we never use it.

Kind Regards, John
 
I think it sloshes around an insufficient quantity of insufficiently replenished insufficiently heated water for an exceedingly long time (well over 3 hours in our case).
 
What if we left the EU? We could afford solar panels for every house in the land. Probably. That would save everyone real money.
What would we do for electricity when it's dark, or overcast?

How would we save real money when we'd then have to pay 10s of millions of people several times the going rate for the pitiful dribbles of electricity they produce at times when not much is required?

And where would we buy powerful dust suckers if the makers stop building them because there's no longer a larger enough market?
 
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I think it sloshes around an insufficient quantity of insufficiently replenished insufficiently heated water for an exceedingly long time (well over 3 hours in our case).
Quite so. The first time we tried it when we got the machine (given that it sounded like a good idea), we actually thought something had gone wrong with the programmer, since it didn't seem as if the programme was ever going to finish - just as with yours, over 3 hours.

Kind Regards, John
 
The first time we tried it when we got the machine (given that it sounded like a good idea), we actually thought something had gone wrong with the programmer, since it didn't seem as if the programme was ever going to finish - just as with yours, over 3 hours.
Ours does have the decency to tell you how long it's got left to run, so you can while away an entire morning or afternoon, if you want, watching a 7-segment display count down.
 
The EU should stop worrying about it and concentrate on THEIR own energy waste.

Just think how much carbon is produced when the MEPs do their ridiculous monthly shuttle to Strasbourg in France :mad: :mad: :mad:
Or by people using patio heaters, warm air curtains, etc.
 
1) The Sky box uses so much as it keeps the LNB powered so it can adjust the start and finish time if program changes have altered program times. However I feel you should be able to select if you want this feature.

2) Cars use so much fuel because of the catalytic converter they would use far less fuel if we had used lean burn engines. The old 2CV and Plastic pig both did 60 MPG but also crash tests means cars are far heavier now than 30 years ago so do more damage to anything they hit but of course less damage to those inside. The three wheel plastic pig had best insurance record as drivers were clearly more careful. Volvo was the worst for many years.

3) I have nothing against having all the details declared so one can make an informed selection but this A, A+, and A++ given to fridges and freezers for example has seen the 50/50 fridge/freezer slowly been replace with 60/40 as the bigger the fridge and smaller the freezer the better rating they get.

4) As to modern technology the ratings often stop it in it's tracks. With for example the frost free freezer it gives an even temperature throughout and also means the draws are larger plus no frost to stop door shutting correctly and no loss of space due ice build up. But since it has a heater on the tests it often shows the frost free in a bad light.

5) Simple task like mowing the lawn. We are told to give nature a chance you should only cut it twice a year this is what councils now do. But that means the lawn mower has to be much more powerful. I personally stop mowing the lawn when the frogs start to hatch. If I have a weak lawn mower then I can't do this so end up killing all the frogs.

6) I see the point in a kettle which will boil a cup full but reduced wattage no, again have all kettles automatic knock off I can see some point. When I was a lad we never boiled the kettle from cold. It sat on the corner of the stove and when we wanted boiling water we moved it to the centre. Now if they ban high wattage kettles we will just return to that method. I already have a coffee maker which keeps my coffee hot although rarely used. There are kettles which do the same called a hot tap uses low power and water always on the boil how does that save energy?

What I would like is some tea cosy to fit my pans. The same of course for the kettle. Why should we allow the kettle to cool. Why not build like a thermos flask so we heat hot water not cold. OK pans only with induction hobs but why don't we have insulation around our pans?

I went to a web site which was trying to convince one to dump your old fridge/freezer and replace with a new more efficient model. However I did the maths myself and yes with the cheapest of the cheap non frost free it could pay for its self in two years. But look at frost free then more like 10 years which is likely the life of the machine anyway. Plus the problem in disposing of the old unit and all the resources used to build the new one.

In the main the problem is a blinkered approach. Put a tumble drier in a warehouse and test it and the results are very different to installing it in a house. Once in the house we have to consider.
a) Is the air in the house dry or is the gas cooker causing the air to be damp to start with?
b) How much does it cost to re-heat any air pumped outside?
c) With the depression caused by pumping air outside draw in any combustion produces from open flue fires?
d) Will using a lower temperature and running over night cause a danger should the appliance fail?
Typically my house sits at around 45 - 55% humidity. My father-in-laws house sits at around 75-85% humidity mainly as he cooks on gas and with triple glassing never opens a window. Clearly a tumble dryer will perform very different in the two houses.

Education yes tell us what to do but there is no one size fits all. Let us decide what we want to do.
 
Henrys start at 600W. You can turn it up to 1200W if you want it to stick to the floor.
At what width of sweeping device? As I have said air volatility cleaner not vacuum there needs to be a set gap so the air can enter the nozzle and the hard floor will need more of a gap then thick pile carpet. With street cleaners the gap is very important but they often sweep the whole street but direct the dirt to the curb and only suck up dirt from the curb.

With a powered brush on a floor cleaner it could also sweep a greater area than it sucks dirt from. I have one in kitchen which sucks dirt from only about 4 square inches but cleans the whole floor. I use a brush yes manual brush and sweep everything to corner and when the vacuum cleaner detects the bush it sucks up the dirt in front of it.

Years ago when one bought a vacuum cleaner it came with a host of tools so you selected right one for floor being cleaned. That idea seems to have gone.
 
Education yes tell us what to do but there is no one size fits all. Let us decide what we want to do.
Indeed, that's what I was suggesting - maybe, even, the tax (or whatever) incentives to do what 'they' think is best - but, in general, I'm no great fan of Big Brother completely removing the choice.

Kind Regards, John
 
Got a new dishwasher recently - it has an "Eco" programme, which (I'm assuming here) is the one which is used to get it's official A+whatever rating.

It's useless, we never use it - always go for one of the other programmes which actually work.

It's not a Bosch then.
 
Would you favour, or even regard as acceptable, Big Brother intervening in relation to energy-wasting activities such as those?
For as long as people are so lethally selfish as to carry on buying and using them, yes and yes.
 

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