fcu or 20a dp switch for kitchen appliances

Joined
11 Sep 2007
Messages
77
Reaction score
0
Location
Nottinghamshire
Country
United Kingdom
Which is the best way?

Appliances in kitchen......Isolator switches above work top then down to a single socket for appliance.

Any preferences between using FCU'S or 20A double pole switches for my isolators or will either do?

Regards Katron.
 
Sponsored Links
If you're using fused plugs, then there's no point in having an FCU, and it will be an annoyance should a fuse go, as you won't know which it is, so use DP switches.

If you are using unfused plugs then FCUs are the way to go.

An alternative to both is a grid plate with switch (and fuse, if needed) modules.
 
thankyou bas
I'll use the dp switches
By the way bas you seem to upset a few people on here and you know your stuff...
 
Does the 20A DP switch you have in mind comply with BS1363?
 
Sponsored Links
Here we go...Let me just nip this one in the bud and ask why you always jump into a discussion like this, start an argument, then blame Ban?

Addressed to FR, btw.
 
To Securespark,

Answer the question of whether or not a 20A DP complies with BS1363 and perhaps you'll understand why I asked a 'simple' question.

And I'll post WHEN I want and don't need to seek YOUR permission. BAS is more than capable of fighting his own corner thank you very much and whether or not he agrees with my post I hope he might understand why I brought up BS1363.
 
As BS1363 is the Specification for 13 A fused plugs and switched and unswitched socket-outlets, then 20A DP switches don't comply with it - how could they?

Neither do light switches, cooker control units, shower isolators, shaver sockets, flex outlet plates, grid modules, RCD sockets.....
 
the answer is probably buried in there somewhere but I fing Fing is being mean.

Possibly what he has in mind is this:

One of the curiosities of the UK ring circuit is that is fused at 30 or 32Amps, but can be run in cable of capacity a little lower (because the ring more or less doubles the cable capacity).

If you take a spur off it, you are only allowed one single or double socket on it, as a precaution against the load on the spur exceeding the capacity of the cable.

The terminals on a 20A switch might only be rated at 20A, but they are on a supply fused at 30A. However since they feed a single socket with one (or two) 13A plugs in it the load on the spur can only be 13A (or 26A which is incorrect but a different can of worms).

For some reason I don't understand, it is permitted to take a spur off the terminals on a 13A socket, but using the terminals on a 20A switch is not mentioned.

Since the terminals on the switch are invariably the same size or larger, I don't give a flying ****, and neither does (almost) anyone else in the entire world.

IMO a 20A over-counter switch feeding a 13A under-counter socket for an appliance is an excellent solution.

I am not alone.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top