Glow Worm 30cxi - Just Changed Diverter - Now Won't Start Up

[Whitespirit66]

I posted a thread a thread recently asking for advice about changing the diverter valve on my brother's Glow Worm 30cxi.

//www.diynot.com/diy/threads/glow-worm-30cxi-diverter-advice.444618/#post-3487964

Thanks to some advice on here, I managed to change the seized diverter valve without any problems - or so I thought. I turned the boiler off with the switch on the boiler's front panel, changed the valve, then switched on again. Nothing. The boiler won't start up.

After a while, the LCD display started flashing on for a second, then going off. When the display comes on momentarily, I can hear a brief burst of what I think is the fan.

I didn't really want to touch this boiler, as I've heard the stories. Seems like they're true. Any pointers would be appreciated - although I fear the worst. My RGI's not back from holidays for a few days, so if there's anything I can try before he returns it would mean my brother can have some ch and hw.

 

[ScottishGasMan]

Nope, theres not likley anything you can do to fix now, going to need an RGI by the sound of it.

 

[Whitespirit66]

Well, went back 2 hours later, turned on a hot tap (more in hope than expectation) and hot water came out. Heating works too. I don't understand why a dead boiler suddenly starts working, but that's what you get with these things. I wouldn't have thought there was enough water in it after draining boiler when fitting diverter valve to work properly, but the thing's in the loft and I had taken my ladder home earlier. So I couldn't check the pressure.

I didn't seem to be getting a great deal from the boiler's integral filling loop when I was in the loft earlier. So that's probably yet another fault. Where does it end with these things??????

And it would have been nice if G W had bothered to fit drain-off cocks to the CXi's F and R isolation valves!!!

 

[Agile]

Most likely you got water on some of the LV sensors and that overloaded the power supply on the PCB which causes it to shut down.

Leaving it a while enabled the water to drain off.

Tony

 

[wannocks]

And it would have been nice if G W had bothered to fit drain-off cocks to the CXi's F and R isolation valves!!! [/QUOTE]

The drain off cock is the black tap in the underside of the boiler.

Did the pressure sensor zero when the boiler was drained? They can stick on these and give a false reading of the pressure in the boiler, worth confirming if it's in a loft. It could be running without enough water in it.

 

[Whitespirit66]

Most likely you got water on some of the LV sensors and that overloaded the power supply on the PCB which causes it to shut down.

Leaving it a while enabled the water to drain off.

Tony

Thanks Tony. I was really careful to avoid spills, and apart from half an egg cup that came out on the lower chassis near the left hand half of the diverter cartridge when I unscrewed it, everything else was dry. Looking online, these CXis don't seem to like being turned off. They seem to be temperamental, but at least the PCB seems OK. I thought it had gone.

 

[Whitespirit66]

And it would have been nice if G W had bothered to fit drain-off cocks to the CXi's F and R isolation valves!!!

The drain off cock is the black tap in the underside of the boiler.

Did the pressure sensor zero when the boiler was drained? They can stick on these and give a false reading of the pressure in the boiler, worth confirming if it's in a loft. It could be running without enough water in it.[/QUOTE]

And it would have been nice if G W had bothered to fit drain-off cocks to the CXi's F and R isolation valves!!!

The drain off cock is the black tap in the underside of the boiler.

Did the pressure sensor zero when the boiler was drained? They can stick on these and give a false reading of the pressure in the boiler, worth confirming if it's in a loft. It could be running without enough water in it.[/QUOTE]


Thanks wannocks. Problem is the boiler is fitted low to the loft floor, and I didn't spot the drain off tap. However, I spotted it in the manual today, but I don't think's it's ever been used and I'm afraid it won't seal if it will even open. As the boiler is the highest point in the system, I just drain half a bucket from a downstairs rad, which seems to be enough to empty the boiler.

Not sure if the pressure sensor zeroed, as I had turned the boiler off before draining it down - which led to the problem of it not turning back on - then came on all by itself. Though when I did take all the pressure out of the system to check the Exp. vessel, I did wonder why the display didn't go any lower than 0.5 Bar. This leads me on to one of todays new problems I found with it..........................................

My brother had had the heating on earlier before I arrived this afternoon. It was slightly warm when I got there. I went up into the loft, and the pressure display read 3 Bar, and was flashing. I let all the pressure out of the system and tested the expansion vessel pressure, which was very low. I pumped it up to a shade over 1 Bar, repressurised and all was well - almost. This leads me onto today's second new problem........................

I'll start a new thread for this one - //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/glow-worm-30cxi-part-question.445595/