GlowWorm 30cxi boiler. Now NO need to buy replacement! :)

Agile said:
But you need to prevent further dirt entering the boiler!
Absolutely! Apart from the parts I've had off and cleaned (don't ask me HOW I cleaned them :oops: ), judging by the dirt on those parts, it's not too hard to image that level of grime existing on all other parts etc. within the boiler and indeed through the rest of the system.

Agile said:
Many would fit a magnetic filter. But I prefer a gauze filter as it keeps out non magnetic parts as well.
Is that something I could fit? And where would one fit said filter?

Agile said:
WE would normally say power flushing but that's only as good as the person doing it and the chemicals he uses.
What 'proper' chemicals does a powerflush use (so I know)?
I would love for a plumber to come and (properly) powerflush my system, but I have read on here that is a good day's work, plus the cost chemicals will add up to the region of £500 to £600 to do. If only I could splash that cash and get it done, I would, but alas for now, I don't think so. :(

Agile said:
The boiler installer is meant to flush the system and ensure the system is clean before the boiler is fitted.
Note that this is not a new install (of the boiler). This boiler was installed in 2007 by the then homeowners father who apparently was Corgi Registered and a 'master tradesman' (whatever one of those is) - NOT that my solicitor could find on the Corgi site this boiler installation having been registered, NOR were any installation documents provided as they had been 'lost' - my ar$e!

From the boiler's service record, it has never been serviced since the date it was installed in 2007.

Thanks again chap,

Andy
 
Sponsored Links
Most independents charge about £250-£350 to power flush.

The non acid chemical most use is X800. You can also add that yourself for a day and run the system for several hours to circulate. Then flush out and add inhibitor.

But it is mostly a flocculating agent to loosen the dirt rather than dissolve it.

To dissolve you need an acid, usually citric as its cheap and usually the main active ingredient of DS40 and FX2 etc.

But even citric acid will have a possibility of causing leaks in an old system and particularly on rad valves.

I introduce it a bit at a time to reduce the concentration hoping that lessens the chance of leaks. Many are formed where a pinhole has been blocked with the sludge and when that's dissolved away it will leak.

One fellow I used to know who ONLY did power flushing would not treat systems older than seven years because of the risk of causing leaks.

Tony
 
I see on the Fernox DS40 datasheet that 'black sludge' is otherwise called magnetite - which according to wiki is otherwise known as iron oxide, 'a naturally occurring magnetic mineral'.

NOW I know this is why magnetic filters are installed in systems. Learn something new every day!

Cheers again,

Andy
 
There are several forms of iron oxides and only magnetite is strongly magnetic. Thats why I am not so keen on just a magnetic filter.

Any filter is fitted to the return pipe close to the boiler to catch any dirt pumped round the system.

To make matters worse there are also some complex iron hydroxide/oxide compounds formed in water.

Tony
 
Sponsored Links
Is the fitting of a filter to the return pipe a pipe cutting etc. exercise?

I don't see a filter on there, but then again I would not recognize one if it jumped up and bit me on the ar$e.

A
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top