GU10 lamps and dimmers

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Hi can anyone clarify the GU10 lamp (mains halogens) and dimmers business up for me please.

I have in the past fitted mains halogens and was always told I need a dimmer of twice the load, ie fit 8 x 50W lamps which is 400w and you need a dimmer which capable of about 800w, not that easy to find, the choice goes right down once you go up to that sort of wattage and 8 lamps is not exactly a lot, so why is it such a problem?

Why don't they make loads of dimmers that handle bigger wattages? I often go into someones house and they will easily have 8 or 10 fittings and no one wants to flick loads of switches just because they want one room lighting on. It just don't seem to make sense to me, mains halogen is very popular now but it easily is often a problem because of the wattage.

I have also seen switches which say non-derateable what are these, are these switches that will actually do the wattage marked on them even if you are using GU10's? If so that would make you think they could do twice the wattage marked on them if you were using ordinary tungsten lamps, wouldn't it, all very strange. I know you cant do that but I am just saying logically.

Also when you are buying switches, a lot of suppliers tell you nothing about this business of doubling for GU10's as if they are not aware, so what happens if you put GU10's in and don't double the voltage, will it work, will it blow? And how do you know when buying switches which ones are capable of doing the actual load of the GU10's without doubling?

It seems to me it would be very easy if you had a big room, to put far too many 50w fittings up only to realise there isn't a dimmer that can cope, that isn't some weird industrial thing. I mean put in 12 fittings and what are you going to do other than split it into 2 circuits which you may not want, and yet that isn't really an excessive amount for some rooms. I know as a trained electrician you would know how many fittings you can have on a dimmer.

Any help and answers to my questions appreciated.
 
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There is a 1kW dimmer available from TLC.

Yes, X rated switches do not need to be derated for certain loads, but these are standard plate switches.

Dimmers have to be derated because of the TH load, unless the dimmer can specifically handle TH loads.
 
securespark said:
There is a 1kW dimmer available from TLC.

Yes, X rated switches do not need to be derated for certain loads, but these are standard plate switches.

Dimmers have to be derated because of the TH load, unless the dimmer can specifically handle TH loads.

Hi cheers for the reply securespark, I know TLC do the 1kW ones and have had to resort to them a few times but don't you find it a pain when what you really want is one of the nice looking smaller wattage ones where you have some choice.

What I am interested in as well is why isn't 50w, 50w with these dimmers, why do you have to count 50w as if it were 100w. There is no transformers or electronics involved in the lamps so why the increase.

Suppose I will have to keep putting in several circuits or ugly 1000w dimmers. just for circuits with a mere 10 fittings etc.

Are any of the mk logic dimmers non-derateable?
 
happyhero said:
What I am interested in as well is why isn't 50w, 50w with these dimmers, why do you have to count 50w as if it were 100w. There is no transformers or electronics involved in the lamps so why the increase.

The lamp filiment is very low resistance when cold and increases as it heats up. When the lamp is turned on and before the filiment is hot the current is as much as 5 times the normal current ( the 50 watt lamp takes 250 watt) This over current is only for a fraction of a second but that is enough to destroy the dimmers components.
 
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Bernard is right, a cold TH is lower resistance when cold than a normal filament lamp, (this is a logical thing to get to, considering at opperating temp a 50w TH must have the same resistance as a 50w normal, the the TH opperates much hotter)

The triacs in lamp dimmers are stressed more than you might imagine to start with, say for example you have a 1kw lighting load, and you dim to about 30% brightness and still have 500w disapated in the lamps, you might think 2A would be the current in question, but electronics are much more sensitive to instantanous current than cables or fuses for example and while it may be 2A average over the long run, the traic sees currents in excess of 4A (remember cooler lamps, lower resistance) for some fraction of the cycle, is worse with TH lamps for the reason in the paragraph above, Triacs are overrated in lamp dimmers, and where TH is concerned need to be overrated even more.

So its not just the switching on of the lamps in the first place which is stressful, dimming them is also harder than might be first thought on the electronics

Also note that dimming a TH bulb will reduce its lifetime as the chemical process which restores the filament is less efficent when the temperature is lower
 


Fit these instead - you need less of them because they spread their light better then normal GU10s, and dont need dimming due to the fact you use less of them! Click image for sales. On, and you'll be doing your bit for the envt.
 
There's nothing stopping you from fitting a 1kW module onto another plate.
 

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