WT* is a "neutral leakage"?
Heating issue
- Thread starter Mertyn
- Start date
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You'll get that when you are old
Right that's obviously the wrong term... Basically there was a poor connection in the neutral circuit which the sparkies traced down to between two plug sockets, in the kitchen and bedroom. They chased a new wire between them to fix it. Could they have inadvertently damaged the connection to the thermostat whilst finding the fault?
Anything is possible, a joint box with a loose connection could have been disturbed as part of the works etc.
You need to prove you have a neutral there. Ideally one would obtain a suitable tester, but one could isolate the power, wire a lamp holder between L-N, fit a lamp, switch it back on, have the programmer call for heat and see if the lamp lights
You need to prove you have a neutral there. Ideally one would obtain a suitable tester, but one could isolate the power, wire a lamp holder between L-N, fit a lamp, switch it back on, have the programmer call for heat and see if the lamp lights
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Hi, I've just checked with a multimeter, nothing between live and neutral, 240v between live and earth. It's looking like the neutral is indeed the issue. What is the next step to fixing it? I'm pretty certain it'll be a loose connection in relation to the electricians being over.
Your central heating should be controlled by a single switch somewhere and ideally (but may not be) all accessories would run through a wiring centre (terminal box). As the programmer works, it is not going to be a problem on the socket circuit.
You need to follow the thermostat cable and determine where the neutral is disconnected - at the wiring box or possibly the boiler itself.
Here is a typical diagram:
Obviously the neutral for the room thermostat could be connected to any of the other neutral wires anywhere on the circuit.
You need to follow the thermostat cable and determine where the neutral is disconnected - at the wiring box or possibly the boiler itself.
Here is a typical diagram:
Obviously the neutral for the room thermostat could be connected to any of the other neutral wires anywhere on the circuit.
Last edited:
Thanks that's helpful, this is starting to make a small amount of sense to me...
I've taken a photo of my junction box: https://goo.gl/photos/G9FLxdyV847QfpeR7
I've labeled the wires coming in to the box
1. Valve (certain)
2. Thermostat (i think)
3. Power supply (?)
4. Pump (certain)
5. Boiler (certain)
The programmer appears to be wired into a separate box, it has it's own switch.
The problem i have is all of the wires look correctly secured. I guess I could dig around at the back of the boiler but I can't imagine how that wire would have been disconnected somehow...
I've taken a photo of my junction box: https://goo.gl/photos/G9FLxdyV847QfpeR7
I've labeled the wires coming in to the box
1. Valve (certain)
2. Thermostat (i think)
3. Power supply (?)
4. Pump (certain)
5. Boiler (certain)
The programmer appears to be wired into a separate box, it has it's own switch.
The problem i have is all of the wires look correctly secured. I guess I could dig around at the back of the boiler but I can't imagine how that wire would have been disconnected somehow...
It looks like your thermostat could be wired back to the programmer.
Hi Echo, how did you come to that conclusion? Every day is a learning day!
You have a Y plan system which differs from the diagram posted above
cable 2 blue is neutral to the junction box
cable 2 green/yellow is earth to junction box
cable 2 brown is hot water on from programmer
cable 3 blue is hot water off to valve
cable 3 brown is heating on to valve
I take it you have no cylinder stat?
There is no thermostat cable here, it is likely to be wired back to the programmer. The switched live from the room stat will join to the brown wire at the other end of cable 3. The permanent live from the room stat will be connected to the heating on terminal of the programmer. The neutral and earth will be connected to the N and E terminals at the programmer position. Have a look there.
cable 2 blue is neutral to the junction box
cable 2 green/yellow is earth to junction box
cable 2 brown is hot water on from programmer
cable 3 blue is hot water off to valve
cable 3 brown is heating on to valve
I take it you have no cylinder stat?
There is no thermostat cable here, it is likely to be wired back to the programmer. The switched live from the room stat will join to the brown wire at the other end of cable 3. The permanent live from the room stat will be connected to the heating on terminal of the programmer. The neutral and earth will be connected to the N and E terminals at the programmer position. Have a look there.
Here is a y plan diagram, there appears not to be a cylinder stat so the cylinder stat is omitted from the diagram and the HW on wire goes straight to terminal 8 (orange wire on valve + boiler + pump live)
I have changed the diagram to Y plan.
Echo - where do you see a cable 2 brown?
Guys... It's fixed!
See if you can spot what went wrong https://goo.gl/photos/kN9QFkKfbu7YmSnw5
I can only imagine the sparkies dislodged it whilst checking out the rest of the circuit.
On a side note, what on earth is the bit of garden twine doing there? filler?
I have a cylinder, would the stat be used for the immersion heater? if so I don't have one...
Thanks so much for all your help, could have avoided the spend on the actuator and thermostat but it's been a valuable learning experience!
See if you can spot what went wrong
https://goo.gl/photos/kN9QFkKfbu7YmSnw5I can only imagine the sparkies dislodged it whilst checking out the rest of the circuit.
On a side note, what on earth is the bit of garden twine doing there? filler?
I have a cylinder, would the stat be used for the immersion heater? if so I don't have one...
Thanks so much for all your help, could have avoided the spend on the actuator and thermostat but it's been a valuable learning experience!
Looks like a neutral wire has come out.
And no, you should have a tank thermostat to turn off the boiler when tank is hot enough.
They are just a box held to tank with stretched wire (curtain wire).
And no, you should have a tank thermostat to turn off the boiler when tank is hot enough.
They are just a box held to tank with stretched wire (curtain wire).
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