HELP! - Accidentally sawn into heating pipe!

If you look at the picture again you will see it's a doorway type carpet gripper. Not the type you put next to a wall, or even a partition.
 
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Pic 3 shows the cut board going under carpet gripper, which would indicate there being a wall there, this would enable you to carefully prise the short piece of board up without risking any cutting it.

.

I think you are looking at a doorway. :rolleyes:

EDIT. sorry didn't see your post sooey as had to dry the keyboard off.
 
My screen copy of pic 3 is too dark to tell the detail, but i take your word for it, and, if so, i'm wrong in that irrelevant detail.

The advice given still stands.
 
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Guys,

Thanks all for your suggestions. It is indeed a doorway. Spent most of yesterday evening removing door and taking up laminate flooring in other room and taking more floor boards up. The sawing was down to myself and a structural engineer as we are taking a wall down below and need to see the wall etc.

I am about to start draining the system now and am looking at cutting the pipe either side of the joist and using a new piece of pipe and yorkshire fittings. My only concern is play in the pipes, as i think the fittings have a stop point inside them? Am i just worrying about nothing here or will it be a tight fit etc?

The pipe is still not leaking, but as you suggest a replacement pipe is best, then doing a solder repair.

Thanks

Barry
 
Hi picasso,

Thanks for this. I believe the pipe is 15mm so will look at getting these can you get these with solder in like the yorkshire ones i have?

I assume these are just without the slight indent in the middle.

Thanks

Barry
 
Right all done, used a normal 15mm coupler and a 15mm slip coupler but after filling i have noticed a very slight wince from 1 side of the slip coupler. I guess this is bad news and will need to cut and try again? I suppose re-heating the coupler is a no no?
 
Whatever you do you'll have to drain it off again now. You could try resoldering the coupler once it's drained but it's better to try and do it right, which means removing it and starting again, possibly with a little less heat.
Take your time doing it and make sure the solder gets drawn in, and you shouldn't have any problems when you fill it again.
 
If you were able to get all the water out of the pipe you could probably use flux and solder to remake the joint.

In fact the best solder to use is radio type multicore fluxed.

But its usually very difficult to get all the water out.

It helps when soldering to contain the heat around the pipe to put some ali foil on the far side.

Tony
 
Thanks guys,

Heated again, took off and wiped off solder. Sanded/wire wool and clean pipe again. Refluxed and soldered again and now re-filling. The trouble is i have a thermal store and takes an age to drain and re-fill! Oh well I'm learning......
 
But you have not learnt enough to get rid of the thermal store!

Or to fit isolating valves so you an play with your soldering!

Tony
 
But you have not learnt enough to get rid of the thermal store!

Or to fit isolating valves so you an play with your soldering!

Tony

Nowt wrong with thermal stores T. Mine is working sweet as a nut. Especially now I've dropped the kW input to more closely match the house loading.
 

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