So on that picture the right hand pipe has an automatic air valve that removes the air from the pipes. Is there a unit that can be used to replace this then. And in the short term, Ill just keep opening these valves to let the air out..
Help Bleeding/Air problem?
- Thread starter Churchyoil
- Start date
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You'll have to make sure the compression fitting at the bottom will fit onto the new valve but something like this will probably do the job.
http://www.h-i-e.co.uk/Honeywell-Auto-Air-Vent-Ea122-1989.html
http://www.h-i-e.co.uk/Honeywell-Auto-Air-Vent-Ea122-1989.html
These valves should only be sited where the water pressure is guaranteed to be higher than the outside air pressure, otherwise they can allow air to enter the system which is a bit of a disaster.
That's why there's only one on the feed side and you shouldn't have one on the other side where the cooler water is returning to the boiler, effectively being "sucked" back there by the pump.
This especially applies in your system where the header tank is probably not much higher than the location of those valves in the picture.
To be honest I'm not that familiar with those old automatic valves so not entirely certain whether the cap should normally be tight or left slightly loose. Does any water eventually come out if it's left loose enough to let the air through?
Someone else here will hopefully comment on that.
That's why there's only one on the feed side and you shouldn't have one on the other side where the cooler water is returning to the boiler, effectively being "sucked" back there by the pump.
This especially applies in your system where the header tank is probably not much higher than the location of those valves in the picture.
To be honest I'm not that familiar with those old automatic valves so not entirely certain whether the cap should normally be tight or left slightly loose. Does any water eventually come out if it's left loose enough to let the air through?
Someone else here will hopefully comment on that.
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Ok just an update i had no air come out of the pump this morning so i will keep an eye on that but i did have air again when opening that black cap on the air value in the loft. Could it be possible that this value is damaged. There must also be an air leak somewhere. The pipes and pump was hunting again this morning.
It's possible the air trapped in the system is taking time to circulate round to the valve so a few attempts to bleed may ne needed.
It's probably best to only bleed while the pump isn't running so there's no danger of air being pulled the wrong way back into the valve.
When the system has finally settled down you should follow the instructions for adding corrosion inhibitor to the heating water. The gases you are releasing may not be air but a result of corrosion of the insides of the radiators.
It's probably best to only bleed while the pump isn't running so there's no danger of air being pulled the wrong way back into the valve.
When the system has finally settled down you should follow the instructions for adding corrosion inhibitor to the heating water. The gases you are releasing may not be air but a result of corrosion of the insides of the radiators.
Ok thanks alot for your help.
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