Help please removing a eol door contact

[Catman66]

Hi All,

I am hoping for some advice. I am having a rear door bricked up and replaced with a window instead. At present it currently has a door contact fitted with eol resistors which is no longer required as the window will only lead into a utility room(external to this area is covered by PIRs). I have unscrewed the contacts for the time being and taped them together to fool the alarm so that we can still set it. However i would like to remove the wiring from within the panel. I assume that if i do this i would still need to fit the eol in the panel to fool it into thinking that the contact is still there. Can anyone please confirm if this is correct and confirm which resistor will need to be fitted in the panel. Please see the images below.


I am also having a new front door fitted currently there are flush contacts, i have not yet had a look at it properly but i am assuming it would be wired in a similar fashion? I would like to remove it from the panel temporarily while the old door is ripped out in the same manner as mentioned above. The door fitter is going to install a new cable within the door frame to the bottom of the door where i intend to fit some new surface contacts at low level I will then join these to the existing cable at high level. Is this acceptable? I may be able to hide the joint in the sounder box which is adjacent to the front door so technically it is in a tamper proof enclosure or could fit a separate joint box, does the JB need to be tamper proof if the wiring has eol fitted? I am hoping to fit a smaller more discreet set of contacts then shown in the pics below is there any particular type that i need?


Finally when working in the panel is there anything i should know? Do i need to isolate it to work within the panel? Can i disconnect the contacts whilst still 'live' or is this likely to blow an internal fuse? I do not know the engineers code but assume i can silence the alarm with my user code if it starts to go into alarm or fault.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[sparkymarka]

Knowing what control panel you have would help !

 

[Catman66]

Apologies all that info and missed the crucial part - it is a texecom veritas

 

[sparkymarka]

In picture 2 the wire attached to the yellow wire, is the eol resistor , some weird value as alarms go . 10k I believe, that needs to go across the zone in the panel

 

[Catman66]

Thanks sparkymarka yes i had looked it up as 10K. Presumably i can do the same for the flush mounted contact until the new front door has been fitted?

If anyone able to answer any of my other queries it would be much appreciated, hoping to have a look at this after work tonight.

 

[sparkymarka]

No fuse as the door contact has no power, if you can get the wire to the speaker and joint it out inside it one less junction box , CQR SC517 ..... Not multi as yours is not supported on the internal resistors

 

[EightyTwo]

Flush contacts at the bottom of door frames can get damp and corroded. I'd be inclined to put it around 12" up. This will also mean that you're not trying to put the magnet in the end of the tenon. And you don't have to lie on the front door step to fit it!!

You don't need a JB with a tamper switch on your system. If you join the cable with solder and tape, you could hide the joint behind the door frame. That'd be as safe as houses...

20mm drill for the flush/concealed door contact.