House Freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezing HELPPPP

yeh you're right about damp, we do suffer rising damp from our floor. when we had laminate floor it went up like a mountain, so now we have carpet but its dry.

i will get a dehumidifier aswell, i have 2 humidity readers both are in same range.

what percentage is ok to stop mould?

thanks
 
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Hi
Apologies for the delay, life is being a bit strained at this time, however, thanks for the information provided in an earlier thread.

I hope you find the following helpful:

To begin with I would mention that your property has around the following U value characteristics:

Walls 2.1W/m2C;
Floor 1.4W/m2C;
Double Glazed Windows 2.8W/m2C (Single Glazed 5.6W/m2C)
Roof ? Your thread mentions that you have 16 inches of insulation in the loft, are you sure that that’s not a typo and should be 6 inches whichever way the corresponding U values would be 0.1 W/m2C (16”) and 0.27 W/m2K (6”).

From what you have mentioned it is obvious that your property is in a rather exposed position and as such average heat losses would not necessarily apply and some weighting should be given to temperature C (centigrade) to compensate. In comparison to the neighbouring properties you have an exposed elevation, which will be contributing significantly to overall heat losses.

To calculate your heat losses take the average internal temperature as 15C and outside temperature as –2C this gives a temperature differential (call it - Td) of 17C (for average exposure conditions), or I would suggest that you use the minimum temperature that has occurred in your area recently and adjust the figure to suit, say its been as low as –10C then the temperature differential (Td) would be 25C. Next multiply the above U values by the temperature difference and you will get the heat loss for each 1m2 of each element in Watts/m2 then if you have time measure the area of each element and multiply into the previously obtained figures and you will arrive at the total heat loss for each of the elements per second, multiply this result by 3.6 to obtain heat loss in kWh, add the results together to obtain the total heat loss for the building. This does provide a worst case scenario and you may wish to copy the table below and fill in for average and extreme conditions.

The table has not copied across - so ...

These are the columns you need:
1. Building Element; 2. Area of Element (m2); 3. U value (W/m2C); 4. Sum A x U (W/C); 5. A.U x Td (W/s); 6. A.U.Td x 3.6 (kWh)
These are the rows you need:
Floor / Walls / Glazing / Roof. Use the U values provided above - the rest is up to you!!

This will then give you the heat and energy loss for each element and total each of the last two columns to obtain your total heat and energy loss for the building.

When you come to carry out your thermal improvements you will need to be wary of the requirements of the Building Regulations Approved Document ADL2B. To comply with Building Regulations for renovation thermal improvements the recommended minimum U values are:- Floor 0.25 W/m2C; Walls 0.35W/m2.C; Roof 0.16 - 0.20W/m2C (depending on how you insulate) – Glazing 3.3W/m2C.

The Building Control officer does have some discretion over the above standards and it would be worth your while discussing these issues with them prior to carrying out any insulating work, as they may be able to advise on the appropriate materials to use.

The benefits of insulating your home will be a reduction in energy consumption and the carbon footprint of your property and you should find that your home becomes affordable to heat.

Regards

ps I have had to edit this thread as I had accidently left out or wanted to change bits - otherwise happy reading!
 

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