Ideal Minimiser FF60 fires up and flames out.

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Agile said:
If the boiler fires up for 4-5 seconds and then goes off it would normally be a failure to detect the flame and result in an ignition lockout.

It could still be other reasons though.

Its important that the ignition electrode is correctly positioned and the insulation is clean. I partially test this with my meter on the 10 Meg range but thats only a low voltage test and does not necessarily mean its Ok with a higher voltage.

These were not a very good design and few are still working.

There are 1000s of them around and working very well.

They were launched about the time Water Systems retired from Ideal.

Tony

You are an idiot.
 
Papion said:
if you have a copper pilot tube & a copper sensing tube (which goes to burner) you will need upgrading
They are all copper tubes. Where can I get more infor on upgrading it.

if its not the flame sense probe or blocked heat exchanger then you really need to get someone to check the burner pressure.

if its very low and sucking or blowing on one of the gas valve sense tubes gets it going ive always found it to be the gas valve.
I did call several corgi repair men before Xmas, but all were off till New Year and were booked up. I will clean the burner and the heat exchanger tomorrow and update the outcome. At the mean time, it is party time in relative house which is warm and cosy.

I am looking to change the boiler in the summer. Ideal Boiler recommends Ideal icos HE 15 costing around £670 plus VAT. Any one can recommend a good corgi guy around Gatwick airport area. How much roughly is the workmanship. Is £800 suffice for his few days of work.

Have a Happy New Year

Happy New Year. Forget Ideal.
 
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I have cleaned the burner and heat exchanger but fault remained the same. Then I blew into the air pressure sensor which had an outlet exposed to ambient pressure and it fired up.

Now my CH is working normally and my New Year is not spoiled.

Thanks a lot for all your suggestions. I am very much grateful.

Thanks to Slug for the manual which is a bible to me.

Happy New Year to you all.
 
Its not quite clear to me what you have done ( assuming you are not standing constantly blowing into the tube! ).

However, be aware that the APS is a safety device to prove that the fan is on before allowing the gas to be turned on.

Should the fan fail and the APS is non functional in protecting the boiler then something nasty could result!

Tony
 
Hi, Agile
assuming you are not standing constantly blowing into the tube!
I blew into APS 4 times when it was off, then restarted the boiler.

You mentioned that
If the boiler fires up for 4-5 seconds and then goes off it would normally be a failure to detect the flame and result in an ignition lockout
I believed the APS was stuck open. By blowing into it reset the switch. From the manual, APS is powered from the PCB in series to flue stat, dry fire stat and gas valve.

If the boiler is running, blowing into APS would shut down the boiler but the fan remains running. That was the problem a few days ago.
The gas is ok. In fact the CH was running happily yesterday morning. It didn't fire up in the evening on the timer with the fan kept running (no fire).

What mystifies me is why the boiler was running for a few seconds and then stop? An open connection (no electrical continuity) on APS ( as my limited understand from the manual schematic diagram ) would not give any signal to open the gas valve. The only possibility is the gas valve is open when starting. It would close when fault ( sudden change of ambient air pressure/ overheating/fire) is detected?

Happy New Year To You :)
 
If you still have 2 copper tubes what usually happens is condensate water is allowed to stray down the atmospheric sensing tube & into the gas valve.Ideal have a retro upgrade kit which involves changing burner a.p.s. gas valve blr stat knob & also you have to drill a hole in the case to fit new sensing tube. I myself have done dozens & can do it in about 1 1/2 hours but i am thup north
 
weareleeds said:
If you still have 2 copper tubes what usually happens is condensate water is allowed to stray down the atmospheric sensing tube & into the gas valve.Ideal have a retro upgrade kit which involves changing burner a.p.s. gas valve blr stat knob & also you have to drill a hole in the case to fit new sensing tube. I myself have done dozens & can do it in about 1 1/2 hours but i am thup north

Ideal upgraded the pcb so that it tried 5 times to light instead of 3. When gunge was on the electrode, they sometimes were wet. The fan would dry them but needed longer than the time of three ignites. Five was fine as the fan would have dried it out by then and then it would ignite.

As long as the boiler is kept clean, it is reliable, Crap heat exchanger design but still reliable. I know of one on a thermal store. Because of the anti-cycle stats on the store, the controls don't operate as frequently on the boiler, and the boiler has been faultless in 8 years. Just gets cleaned once a year.
 

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