Installing a few 12v goodies....

[Alz0r]

OK so the voltage drop you mention is because each light will draw power with the closest using more than the light furthest away?

So every light needs it's own cable run?

ie. I'll have 2 x amber LED lights attached behind the grill, and I'll have to run 2 positive and 2 negatives back to the fuse box / earthing point?

 

[Burnerman]

Yep, thats about it, really. For your pair of amber LED's, each set needs its own feed, but of course they could both share the same fuse.
John

 

[Alz0r]

OK, cheers John I'll post some pictures after Christmas of the finished article!

 

[Burnerman]

Thanks! Its always nice to see the end result, so enjoy your new van and all the best to you!
John
P.S Its really nice to have a shiny new vehicle...so why did some tw@t ding mine in Tesco's last Friday
J

 

[Alz0r]

Just had a thought - there are already lights in the load space (crappy little ones). These are switched. Wouldn't it be 100 times easier to spur off these?

 

[Burnerman]

It certainly would be, and LED stuff draws very little current anyway so I'd be considering that....with my van though the interior lamps have a timer and the darn things go off after a few minutes unless the ignition is left on
For complete protection, use the lowest rated fuse possible.
John

 

[Alz0r]

Ideal. Couldn't I get round the timer issue by spurring off the positive before it goes into the light? Is it just a case of stripping back the insulation and soldering onto the wire (as you would T'ing into a water pipe) ?

 

[Burnerman]

Sadly, the timing circuit isn't usually in the lamp itself.....it has its own controller operated by the door switches - at least on Citroens!
If your own lamps don't have a timer, there's no reason why you shouldn't go ahead.
John

 

[Alz0r]

lovely! saves alot of hassle! cheers