Its gonna be a cold new year!

[K-Man]

Hi ladies and gents,

I've got a (very old) Vulcan Continental boiler which at 3am on xmas day when the missus went into the kitchen smelt of gas. I personally couldnt smell it, but i've been proved wrong before, so I shut off at the main valve to the house. This has happened before (about 5 months ago) and the corgi man said there was a problem with the igniter, the thermo-(something) and the gas valve was sticking. He said that as it was so old we should start to think about getting a new one.

We started to think about it, but unfortunately thats as far as we got! So now we have no boiler. When I can get corgi man round if he cant fix it again Im guessing he can just disconnect the boiler, so we can still run the fire and the hob??? Which leads me onto the next question...

The immersion heater doesnt appear to be working (doh!). We've been in the house for 9 months and never needed it. Its a redring I.H. What size fuse should it have (im guessing 13A). According to the paperwork we received the cylinder was installed in 2003, will the IH have been put in then or will they have robbed the one off the old one? How likely is it to be completely buggered? Any other handy hints on what to check?

Sorry to waffle, but i thought i'd fill you in on everything. Thanks in advance for your help, Im off to bed now cos ive been at work all night

 

[EliteHeat]

Yes, the boiler can be capped if that's the problem.

The immersion heater should have a 13amp fuse, unlikely to have been swapped over with the cylinder change. Very simple and cheapish job to change.

 

[ChrisR]

Yes if you turn the boiler off at its isolator you can still run the fire and hob.

You need a meter to test the IH really. You're looking for around 20 ohms for the heater element, and continuity through the thermostat.
Yes 13A fuse.

 

[K-Man]

Thanks guys, appreciate the advice. I can get a multi-meter to test it, is it simple to test it or shall I get someone experienced in?

Regards

 

[EliteHeat]

Thanks guys, appreciate the advice. I can get a multi-meter to test it, is it simple to test it or shall I get someone experienced in?

If you're going to pay someone to test it, you may as well get them to replace it at the same time.

To test, disconnect from the mains. Put the multimeter on its lowest resistance setting and put the probes on live and neutral - you should get a reasonable reading as stated by Chris above. Next, turn the thermostat to its highest setting, switch the MM to audible continuity and check the two terminals - MM should buzz.

You can buy an immersion heater spanner for about a fiver and about 20 quid for a 27" heater and stat. An hours work tops and 25 quid later you'll be back in business.