knackered old hinge screws just melt under the screwdriver

[Maz]

Hello

I have just uncovered some fabulous old shutters that have been hidden under plywood for x number of years. I want to take them down to get them dipped adn stripped, but the hinge screws are refusing to turn, the groove bit is actually just wearingn away when I try. I have tried giving them a bit of a bang with a screw driver and hammer but had no luck. Shoudl I jsut get a joiner in to take them off, or is tehre some trick I don't know about?

As a bit of a newbie I apologise if this is in the wrong forum.

 

[2scoops0406]

You could try these

 

[big-all]

heeelllooo maz and welcome

i was born and bred in auld reeckie but left some years ago for the selfish south

try this link it was coverd recently
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=24944&highlight=
keyplayers points are very relivant as most points were about star screws

good luck

 

[Dewy]

Those screw extractors are unlikely to be any good as the smallest is 1/8" and has to be screwed into a small hole you drill into the screw.
The threads are the opposite to normal screws and bolts so when you turn them to undo the screw the extractor bites into the hole holding it tighter the more you unscrew them.
You need a tap wrench to turn them.
Stubborn screws can usually be removed with a manual screwdriver held firmly into the screw head as you slightly tighten the screw as you give it a few gentle taps.
This should help to release the threads when you now unscrew it.
It is likely to be rust on the screw holding it tight to the wood.
To overcome this problem I have always dipped a screw in petroleum jelly (vaseline) before screwing in so they come out easy if I ever need to unscrew them years in the future.

 

[matz]

Get an old screwdriver and grind the tip so that its very thin, ie thin for the slot. Then, use this screwdriver as a chisel to deepen the slot ie hit the screwdriver in the slot and try and make the slot deeper. If the screwdriver is an old one with better steel so much the better. Once you have the slot deepened and more defined try to unscrew again. Its imperative to use a screwdriver with EXACTLY the right tip for the slot. Too thick and it'll ride out, too thin and it'll jump out. The longer the screwdriver the better your chances. As said, try tightening up first and then undo with many small movements back and forth until it eventually hopefully undo's.

The other way is too deepen the slot as much as possible as described which at the same time weakens the screwhead ie your taking the slot down to the top of the screw shank, then whack each half of the screw head off with a hammer and small screwdriver (using it as a chisel) this leaves just the screw shank over which the hinges will just lift over with a bit of levering from behind the hinge flap. Once the doors off the hinges, use mole grips to undo the remains of the screws. BUT be careful cos you only have a few chances of "unscrewing" the shanks before they get all chewed up - then your knackered with drilling the shanks out being the only way - not easy!

Phew, feels like I've just written an essay

 

[big-all]

petrolium jelly oooeer misses

 

[Dewy]

Yes BA you use it during your private romantic moments.
You smear it on the bedroom door handle to keep the kids out.

 

[Hitachimad]

What about just drilling the heads off, say a 5mm drill (depends on screw size) remove the shutter, then remove the rest of the screw with vise grips/ mole grips.

 

[Maz]

Hi all

thanks for your replies. i will try the deepen the hole then tighten and untighten method.

Matz, in your second option, do you mean that each half of the screw head will lift slight, allowing me an edge to whack it off with. Have to admit I am a bit nervous about that option.

ciao ciao

 

[Dewy]

Maz I spent 30 years in a tool room and the most hated job was trying to remove broken bolts.
Fortunately they were usually 1/2" or 12mm which gave enough room to drill a hole for a screw extractor but this was not always possible.
Removing a broken tap was even worse and after spending ages trying to remove them manually we often had to get the tap spark eroded out.
The management never liked them sparked out because the 5 spark erosion machines had to run 24 hours a day to produce the final shape of the dies we made.

 

[masona]

It's a pity they don't make something like a long narrow hole cutter over the screw head then take the whole lot out and backfilled with glue and dowel. I suppose the problem would be that you need a drill bit in the middle to guide it.

 

[Dewy]

A plug cutter could be used around the screw but you are unlikely to be able to drill to full depth.
You just have to make sure you use a large enough plug cutter to clear the screw.
You then have to find a plug or dowel that matches the outside diameter instead of the inside as normal.

 

[petewood]

masona I think that is a great idea. If your hole cutter was only slightly bigger than the screw head then maybe the screw itself would help to guide the cutter. An idea I once heard but have never resorted to yet is to heat up the screw with a soldering iron. After it has cooled try removing it. I don't know whether it's meant to loosen it by expansion/contraction or what.

 

[Tom.]

Do not dip the shutters. Dipping dries out the wood, destroys any glue, and generally makes a bit of a mess. If its paint, remove it with a heat gun and scraper.

 

[Maz]

Dipping dries out the wood, destroys any glue, and generally makes a bit of a mess.

Really?? i thought it was just teh standard thing for people to dip and strip shutters and door to restore them (we have the original doors too hidden under panels). there is horrible yellow paint on one side but the rest is nice. if I scrapped that off should I just stain it the same colour as the rest (darkish)?