I have a hotpoint aquarius dishwasher which was displaying a fault with the heating element. I was going to get it repaired soon, but out the blue, it started making banging and crackling noises from the socket and a poof of smoke, even though it was not on, and the electrics went off. We pulled the machine out to find the fuse has entirely melted and so had part of the plug. The wall socket was intact on the inside and still works, though a bit scorched. Hotpoint seem to think that it is impossible for the dishwasher to draw electric when not on. So what is to blame the dishwasher or the electrics? Would this have had an effect to the internal electrics of the dishwasher? Is it worth repairing? It is less than 2 yrs old.
melted plug fuse
- Thread starter olemcdonald
- Start date
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might have been damage to the flex (e.g. appliance put down on it) or damage to plug (e.g. flex yanked) or poor plug assembly.
The appliance is unlikely to have drawn any current when switched off, even if faulty, and even if it did, the fuse in the plug ought to have blown, so I suspect a wiring fault at the plug.
Start by cutting back a few inches of flex and fit a new plug. If you find signs of damage on the rest of the flex replace it (don't try to repair it).
Also replace the old socket, being scorched never does then any good.
If the cables inside the socket show any signs of heat damage, the damaged end must be cut back to clean, as the copper will have been softened by the heat and will not make a reliable contact in future.
After that, see about getting the d/wr repaired.
Also:
Is the socket circuit on an RCD?
Was the dwr plugged into a double socket? If so, what else is plugged into it? (double sockets will overheat if two heavy loads draw current at the same time).
The appliance is unlikely to have drawn any current when switched off, even if faulty, and even if it did, the fuse in the plug ought to have blown, so I suspect a wiring fault at the plug.
Start by cutting back a few inches of flex and fit a new plug. If you find signs of damage on the rest of the flex replace it (don't try to repair it).
Also replace the old socket, being scorched never does then any good.
If the cables inside the socket show any signs of heat damage, the damaged end must be cut back to clean, as the copper will have been softened by the heat and will not make a reliable contact in future.
After that, see about getting the d/wr repaired.
Also:
Is the socket circuit on an RCD?
Was the dwr plugged into a double socket? If so, what else is plugged into it? (double sockets will overheat if two heavy loads draw current at the same time).
Thanks for the quick reply. The dishwasher has been plugged in the same single socket since purchased. It is behind the dishwasher so it is never touched. we had a quick look at the wiring inside the socket and it appears all the damage is on the outside.
I assume that eventually the fuse did blow, because all the electrics switched off it seemed that it took too long, which caused the plug to get hot.
How could the wiring be affected in the socket in order for this to happen randomly. As I said we tried a small appliance in the socket after and it still works.
Thanks
I assume that eventually the fuse did blow, because all the electrics switched off it seemed that it took too long, which caused the plug to get hot.
How could the wiring be affected in the socket in order for this to happen randomly. As I said we tried a small appliance in the socket after and it still works.
Thanks
Plugs and sockets most often overheat if there is a badly made connection (loose). This overheats as it is a poor connection. The heat makes it looser so it gets hotter. Eventually it will burn away. There may have been sparks for a brief moment which is probably what tripped the MCB. More often, the contact just burns out and the appliance stops working.
this is most often seen on heavy-load appliances, particularly electric showers which may draw 40 Amps. The heating element in a dishwasher draws about 10Amps which is quite a lot but will take longer to show.
Once the brass and copper parts have been overheated they are softened and do not make a reliable connection in future.
this is most often seen on heavy-load appliances, particularly electric showers which may draw 40 Amps. The heating element in a dishwasher draws about 10Amps which is quite a lot but will take longer to show.
Once the brass and copper parts have been overheated they are softened and do not make a reliable connection in future.
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this is most often seen on heavy-load appliances, particularly electric showers which may draw 40 Amps. The heating element in a dishwasher draws about 10Amps which is quite a lot but will take longer to show.
Could this have happened even when the appliance is off. It has not been used for approx 2 weeks. This is what has stumped us. Why did this happen when not in use?
Also when it happened it made some loud, banging/crackling type noise.
could a water hose be loose and spraying water over the plug and socket?
We checked for this and behind the dishwasher was dry
Could this have happened even when the appliance is off. It has not been used for approx 2 weeks. This is what has stumped us. Why did this happen when not in use?
Also when it happened it made some loud, banging/crackling type noise.
could a water hose be loose and spraying water over the plug and socket?
We checked for this and behind the dishwasher was dry
was this check done straight after use? so that any spillage hadn't evaporated
Yes, because of the loud noise and the poof of smoke,we pulled the machine out immediately to unplug it. Also the machine was not in use and has not been for a short time.
Yes, because of the loud noise and the poof of smoke,we pulled the machine out immediately to unplug it. Also the machine was not in use and has not been for a short time.
If the mains cable from the dishwasher was damaged, would this happen even though the dishwasher was off.
Nice advert for an accesible DP isolator above the worktop too 
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