Moved Scantronic 9651 - First Stage Reset success.

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Hi,

I moved a Scantronic 9651 keypad and board box (Fitted 3 years previously) to a slightly different location and got the famous 'Lid Tamper' notification. After trying the User 1 code but failing, I got nowhere in clearing it.

Instead of finding the original paperwork for the company who had fitted it, and being lazy, I called the first company nearest to me to quote me for fixing it. £180 Callout Charge. Ouch.
OK, so I then tried three other companies, all quoting £140 - £170. This spurred me on to attempt to find the original paperwork. Luckily with the original invoice I found after 30 minutes of searching, I also realised I had the original user manual and installers one to boot. I typed in the listed engineers code but it did not work, which meant the original Alarm Fitter changed it, probably to secure repeat business.

I called the original company who fitted it and they said 'no problem, we'll give you the engineers code, we'll get the engineer to call you with it'. When they called back they told me they could not give me the code as it was a matter of security (lol) and that a call out fee would be charged £80 + VAT.
But they were having a special offer deal at the moment and they would come an service it for £80 + VAT which would be some fancy circuit check and a battery test. I begrudgingly booked the appointment for three days later.

Having read in the Installers manual and other online forums which said this was an easy fix, I thought I'd give it a go at doing a first stage reset. 5 minutes later, all fixed, done and dusted and certainly £96 better off. I re input my old user code and changed the reset engineers code to something I would remember and called the company to cancel the appointment. Needless to say they were disappointed and confused at how I was able to reset their own engineers code.

Thank you to this and other forums for helping me save a few pounds.
 
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Glad you reset it OK. Not sure why you "lol"ed the matter of security bit. As an installation company.. the engineer code is retained and used for multiple systems to prevent users who have no clue from corrupting the programming. 80.00 was reasonable for a service and would usually cover you for problems over the following 12 months. However the other quotes were a bit steep.
 
Not sure how to do an ironic lol so just used the standard Lol. Apologies.
Given that when your in installers mode the system already does it's own circuit and battery check, I felt giving someone £96 for approx 5 minutes work and 10 minutes of travel expenses seemed a little high for my taste.
 
That's fine however bit more than 5 minutes work as every detector would be internally inspected as would the siren. A full load test on the battery. Programming check etc. Sometimes an external maintenance check is an insurance requirement too.
 
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That's fine however bit more than 5 minutes work as every detector would be internally inspected as would the siren. A full load test on the battery. Programming check etc. Sometimes an external maintenance check is an insurance requirement too.


I have four detector points in total. Three PIR sensors and one door sensor.
You can and I did, a walk test, including siren test (all available from the user and installers manual) so was satisfied all was working. I did that at the same time I reset the Panel, by accident incidentally. Given that the first free years 'service' after installation the engineer did exactly that and gave me a very fancy looking invoice saying my system was fully checked and up to spec, I figured I could do that. he was there a little over 10 minutes. 5 minutes of that was filling out his paperwork.
The load test on the battery was also done in the first stage reset as you have to remove the mains power in order to do one. I had a multimeter connected to it to see if it was putting out the right amount of power for it's spec prior to reconnecting it and looking at the voltage draw when it was connected at the same time as the first stage reset.
Plus my insurance company and four other insurance companies, when I renewed my insurance, did not offer a lower premiums based on a certificate from the Alarm company nor did they say or request that it was a requirement under my terms and conditions so it seemed it made no difference whether I had an Alarm certificate or not. Only that I had an Alarm.

So from my perspective it does not seem all that complicated a procedure, nor warranted.
 
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If the engineer spent 10 minutes doing as you described and you have now done exactly the same then it still has never been checked properly.
Your description of doing the load test is not how it is done.
I am a great advocate for DIY (hence i am here) I just get the hump a bit when companies are slated for charging
for a specialist service just because someone, such as yourself, is obviously capable of looking after their own system.
There is a lot that cannot or do not even want to which is why i have a job.
Also you have a fairly simple domestic alarm.

Anyway lets take any frustration out of this thread.
If you have any queries with your system give me a shout.
 
What about travel time to and from your home , insurance , liability insurance, office staff, ssaib/ nsia fees
£80 .... Not a lot left after all of the above plus more are taken off!
 
I bet you would still want one to visit at 03:00 when you can't stop your sounder from annoying the neighbours. Still, not having a contract would cost you an arm and a leg so, let's hope it does not happen, for your neighbours sake.
 
I bet you would still want one to visit at 03:00 when you can't stop your sounder from annoying the neighbours. Still, not having a contract would cost you an arm and a leg so, let's hope it does not happen, for your neighbours sake.

Having now done the work myself I now know how the system works enough to turn it on, reset it, shut it off, remove it, replace it and reprogram it.
The sounder now a special fitment which improves it too.
So I'm going to say nope.
 
That's fine however bit more than 5 minutes work as every detector would be internally inspected as would the siren. A full load test on the battery. Programming check etc. Sometimes an external maintenance check is an insurance requirement too.


I have four detector points in total. Three PIR sensors and one door sensor.
You can and I did, a walk test, including siren test (all available from the user and installers manual) so was satisfied all was working. I did that at the same time I reset the Panel, by accident incidentally. Given that the first free years 'service' after installation the engineer did exactly that and gave me a very fancy looking invoice saying my system was fully checked and up to spec, I figured I could do that. he was there a little over 10 minutes. 5 minutes of that was filling out his paperwork.
The load test on the battery was also done in the first stage reset as you have to remove the mains power in order to do one. I had a multimeter connected to it to see if it was putting out the right amount of power for it's spec prior to reconnecting it and looking at the voltage draw when it was connected at the same time as the first stage reset.
Plus my insurance company and four other insurance companies, when I renewed my insurance, did not offer a lower premiums based on a certificate from the Alarm company nor did they say or request that it was a requirement under my terms and conditions so it seemed it made no difference whether I had an Alarm certificate or not. Only that I had an Alarm.

So from my perspective it does not seem all that complicated a procedure, nor warranted.

A healthy battery.

Voltage is NO indication that there is any capacity available, in the same way that fumes smelt in your car fuel tank is NO indication that petrol exists!

You do not have one of the £150ish battery testers that the alarm companies use, do you? The control panels don't have one fitted either.
 
That's fine however bit more than 5 minutes work as every detector would be internally inspected as would the siren. A full load test on the battery. Programming check etc. Sometimes an external maintenance check is an insurance requirement too.


I have four detector points in total. Three PIR sensors and one door sensor.
You can and I did, a walk test, including siren test (all available from the user and installers manual) so was satisfied all was working. I did that at the same time I reset the Panel, by accident incidentally. Given that the first free years 'service' after installation the engineer did exactly that and gave me a very fancy looking invoice saying my system was fully checked and up to spec, I figured I could do that. he was there a little over 10 minutes. 5 minutes of that was filling out his paperwork.
The load test on the battery was also done in the first stage reset as you have to remove the mains power in order to do one. I had a multimeter connected to it to see if it was putting out the right amount of power for it's spec prior to reconnecting it and looking at the voltage draw when it was connected at the same time as the first stage reset.
Plus my insurance company and four other insurance companies, when I renewed my insurance, did not offer a lower premiums based on a certificate from the Alarm company nor did they say or request that it was a requirement under my terms and conditions so it seemed it made no difference whether I had an Alarm certificate or not. Only that I had an Alarm.

So from my perspective it does not seem all that complicated a procedure, nor warranted.

A healthy battery.

Voltage is NO indication that there is any capacity available, in the same way that fumes smelt in your car fuel tank is NO indication that petrol exists!

You do not have one of the £150ish battery testers that the alarm companies use, do you? The control panels don't have one fitted either.

Sorry feel like I'm being bashed for doing my own work and being happy about it.
Apologies for sharing.

FYI. I do have one of those £150 "battery testers", I also have a battery reconditioner too.
 
FYI i said from your description it is not the correct way to test the battery.

"The load test on the battery was also done in the first stage reset as you have to remove the mains power in order to do one. I had a multimeter connected to it to see if it was putting out the right amount of power for it's spec prior to reconnecting it and looking at the voltage draw when it was connected at the same time as the first stage reset."

Not bashing you for doing your own work only thing i highlighted was you complaining because companies charged for their services and your only
experience appears to be one company that did a very short service. Do you work for free?


Read more: //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/m...rst-stage-reset-success.457129/#ixzz45R47ayTJ
 
FYI i said from your description it is not the correct way to test the battery.

"The load test on the battery was also done in the first stage reset as you have to remove the mains power in order to do one. I had a multimeter connected to it to see if it was putting out the right amount of power for it's spec prior to reconnecting it and looking at the voltage draw when it was connected at the same time as the first stage reset."

Not bashing you for doing your own work only thing i highlighted was you complaining because companies charged for their services and your only
experience appears to be one company that did a very short service. Do you work for free?


Read more: //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/m...rst-stage-reset-success.457129/#ixzz45R47ayTJ
Apologies again for being me.

Yes I do work for free.
Publishing Design Work, books and magazines. 20 years in the Publishing industry. I also teach too. FOR FREE.
If you want to learn Photoshop, Indesign, general graphics, retouching. Let me know.
 

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