New gas hob pipework connection

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I am installing new kitchen units and I am not ready yet to choose and instruct a gas safe fitter to connect the (4 burner) hob gas line but could do with some advice on what is usually practicable for a fitter.

I have installed a straight run of new 15mm copper behind the units from the 600mm base unit that will have the hob mounted and through a wall (sleeved) to where the fitter can easily connect to the existing 1/2" bsp iron pipework.

If I fit the worktop and hob, is he likely to be able to work in the 600mm space to make all the pipework connections inc a local tap.
Or are most fitters going to want to fit pipework to the hob while its not fitted and come again to connect to the run in the base unit.

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I saw mention of using 10mm microbore for ease of fitting in a previous posting, is this a consideration or is it likely that 10mm would really be too small?
I have a combi boiler but thats on its own pipework back to the meter so this will be the only gas usage on the existing house 1/2" iron supply.
 
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I am sure what you have done, will not hinder the installation of gas hob. Space 0f 600mm is adequate. If someone makes a song and dance about what you have done, look elsewhere. I take it the copper pipe has no joints in it?
 
gas PIPE SLEEVE with plastic pipe thats a no no.
 
DP the copper has no joints, just one 2mtr straight length.

gas PIPE SLEEVE with plastic pipe thats a no no.

You are going to have to expand on the some please. Last year I had new copper gas pipe run through the house and through 2 cavity walls and these were sleeved with plastic pipe, sealed one end and a gas safety cert issued.

From the (Gas Safety (Installation & Use) Regulations.

All pipes that pass through a wall or floor of a building must be sleeved.
This applies to all walls not just load bearing walls. (Gas Safety
(Installation & Use) Regulations. Part D Regulation 19 (2b))

The sleeve should be sealed
1) Between the sleeve and the brickwork
2) On the inside between the sleeve and the pipe, with fire resistant
mastic. The sleeve should normally be sealed at one end only, preferably to
open air, where applicable. In the case of meter boxes the sleeve should be
sealed at the point of entry to the building.

Pipes that go through walls must be sleeved to prevent damage in the event of settlement, to prevent any leaks entering the cavity, and to avoid corrosion. There must not be any joints within the wall (i.e. within the sleeving). The pipes must go directly through the wall.
Pipes must not be run inside wall cavities as any leakage there is very dangerous.
The pipe must be sealed to the sleeves except on the end of the sleeve that is outdoors. This is to allow any leak inside the sleeve to be vented outside.
The gap (generally quite small) between the sleeve and the wall it is passing through should be sealed.
 
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Technically nothing wrong with it, but not good practice.

A sleeve should be made of a material that is approved to contain what is carried in the pipe being sleeved, in this case gas.

Personally I wouldn't worry about it now.

There are thousands of new build houses that have the main gas pipe from the meter sleeved with plastic waste for cheapness.
 
Had 2 quotes to connect the hob now, first £150 and second £75

Wonder if I get a third it will halve again.... ;)
 
Second one is the most realistic and is around the average price
 

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