Rick, I think Tony is missing a bit of essential information when he says the boiler be 'adjusted'. Boiler is, as it stands able to do this down to 5.3kwatts. You need do nothing.
Unusually, I have to disagree with Danny on this occasion. Its true that a new cylinder will improve matters but you can make it far better without any expenditure at all.
I will try to explain but please read slowly and try to understand.
You have several problems:-
Your boiler bangs out 28 kW and within a minute the return pipe is up to temp and turns the boiler OFF.
It stays OFF for the set anticycle time of perhaps 3-4 minutes. It only actually runs to heat the cylinder for just 1 min in 4-5 min! 20% of time?
The flow rate through the heating coil, a 28 mm pipe designed for gravity, is very high and your nupty installer did not add a lockshield valve to set the flow rate and temperature differential to give the most efficient boiler operation.
The situation will be improved if you set the heat output to about 10 kW as the boiler will stay on LONGER thus providing heating for perhaps 3 min in six minutes. 50% of time
To improve matters you need to set the heat output ( d0 ) to 10 kW and perhaps reduce the anticycle time to 1 min although that would not benefit heating operation and defficiency.
YOU can do the settings if you take the time to study the book at NO further cost.
Dont just read all this ( conflicting ) information, start changing the settings and then see what effect that has! You have nothin g to lose and I think you will significantle improve the situation.
There was a recent posting where we showed this lady teacher how to do it and virtually solved the problem with fine tuned settings! Search for that and you may find it interesting reading.
Tony