Old Glow-Worm 45-60B

[twgas]

When you get 4 hot is it any 4 or a specific 4?

 

[robertbullen]

Good question. I'm not entirely sure. I'll have a play and test that over the coming days.

 

[robertbullen]

Just one more thing. The return pipe near the boiler was red hot. I've now removed the room stats of each rad and the return pipe is much cooler.

 

[twgas]

Did the rads get hot when you removed trv heads?

 

[robertbullen]

They didn't seem any hotter to me but then I did open them all up, now I've closed some to see what happens.

Thank again.

 

[robertbullen]

Hi,

There is no obvious pattern with which rads are warmer when others are turned off. I think it's simply that the last one in the circuit gets warm last. Balancing has helped a little but that still means some are very hot while others are warm at best. Again, if I turn off the first rads in the the circuit, the remaining get hotter meaning with some messing, I can get them all red hot. I can only get the last rad red hot by turning off the previous 6 out of 8 rads.

I think the boiler is kettling. It's not banging but I can hear the sound of water bubbling and steam, or at least that's my perception.

I've already used x400 in the entire system BUT what if I closed off all rads on put x400 in just the hot water circuit? Would that mean it would be less diluted passing through the boiler and may clear some more sludge or scale? How long would I need to run it for?

Cheers.

 

[robertbullen]

Well, x200 did no good. Still kettling, still cold rads, still burner on and off every minute or so. It does seem very much like a circulation issue to. With a kettling boiler (no banging) and poor circulation, what next? DS40?

Cheers.

 

[Steelmasons]

If I was your spouse you'd be sleeping elsewhere , this has been going on for at least two months now , unbelievable.

This could have been fixed with one visit by someone who knows what they are doing.

 

[robertbullen]

You're right, I has been going on a while now but we have heat where we need it but the system is not as good as it should be. I can call in a plumber but I want to get to the bottom of this myself, if I can.

End of Jan is my cut off, or if we get another really cold snap. Until then, I'm determined to sort this myself, although I agree it's looking grim.

 

[Steelmasons]

You're right, I has been going on a while now but we have heat where we need it but the system is not as good as it should be. I can call in a plumber but I want to get to the bottom of this myself, if I can.

End of Jan is my cut off, or if we get another really cold snap. Until then, I'm determined to sort this myself, although I agree it's looking grim.

Well on that note Robert you sound a decent chap by surely you must be getting your balls rapped? , you gotta ask yourself is it worth it.

 

[Steelmasons]

FWIW remove pump and open valves Into a bucket , if restricted flow which will possibly be on inlet pump valve then remove valve and check valve for blockage , if ok then stick something up pipe and see if any restriction to pipework , a magnet might be a good idea.

 

[robertbullen]

Cheers, I've replaced both pump valves but I'll check the flow. A job for next weekend I reckon.

Many thanks.

 

[robertbullen]

Just so I understand, is the idea that draining the F&E tank via the pump inlet valve will drain the tank through the boiler, hence highlighting any restriction in flow in the area of the boiler?

 

[Steelmasons]

You'll possibly find the pipework above/below the pump valve is choked, remove pump and stick a rod up the pump valve , seen many blockages at this point so worth a try.

 

[geoff@cetltd]

Hi,

I have an old Old Glow-Worm 45-60B. The boiler keeps cutting out, that is the main burner shuts off after a minute or 2 of running and is back burning within 5 minutes.

Thanks in advance.

Is it a Fuelsaver?

In that case I would hazard a guess that most of the "competent" answers here are wrong - the problem is caused by the fan windings overheating nd tripping the thermal fuse in the windings