passat tdi 97 110 bhp lose power after 3000rpm

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i have a problem with my passat turbo goes after 3000rpm and only comes after i switch engine off b+ on my vagcom software av tested maf sensor and checked all vacum hose need help any1 out there with same problem solved
 
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turbo kicks in upto 3000rpm but loses power in 3rd gear and over.checked n75 valve n changed vacum pipes,
 
Sticking, or binding VNT mechanism?

also check for any split vacuum pipes, preferably behind the egr valve
 
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vnt mechanism moves up and down when reving,also moveit by hand.av put it on a diagnostic machine comes with code 00519 map short to b+.map sensor built in with the ecu box.
 
try unplugging the air flow meter.If it goes better replace using a new one from VW.They now do exchange ones for around 90 quid.
 
did disconnect maf sensor made it worse turbo wouldnt kick all the time
 
Merc do a air flow meter for the cdi220 which fits and is about half the price VW want for one. I have changed loads of them. If you can hook it up to a computer, the ecu gives out data for sensor airflow compared with what the ecu expects at that rev/load range. The failed sensors always read low.
 
I had the same fault code on my Audi A4 Tdi with AFN engine.
Like yourself I'd tried everything from MAF sensors, N75 valve, VAG specialists and Audi themselves. A replacement MAF sensor did help
to some degree but I still lost boost albeit less frequently.

The biggest problem with these engine management systems is that the MAP sensor is built into the ECU. You'll see that a vacume pipe is connected directly to the ECU. After a lot of use this pipe can suck hot oil into the ECU and spray it over the MAP sensor and into the rest if the ECU. It doesn't take and electrical engineer to know that this is a very bad thing indeed :(

I never managed to resolve the issue but AMD in Bucks (VAG tuner) let me know that the above was a common problem and as the MAP sensor is integral to the ECU - it's not an expensive fix. In the end I sold my Audi on without fixing the issue after 50k miles of driving.

I now own a Honda and never plan on buying a European car again!
 
av ordered a maf sensor from euro car parts,dam things expensive coz am not sure its that,i hav opened the ecu looked inside it the map sensor is only a little black box type thing soldered to the main ecu board.av tested the maf sensor,volt test should be 1.5volts on idle but shows me 1.55volts and sometimes 1.08volts put my vag tool onit checking meas blocks maf was out of range was reading to high on idle.hopeing its that.canit be the ecu or can u change the map seprate on them.if its not the maf.
 
i replaced the maf still not coured the fault, dammit.going to strip turbo and cleanit out now and also the my inlet manifold of and clean the gunk inside it.is the map sensor a replacable part as its soldered to the ecu board.
 
fault cured striped turbo and cleaned it lot of gunk in there also cleand intake manifold problem solved
 
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