Potterton Kingfisher

[doitall]

Well, parts are covered under my home emergency insurance, so if the power flush doesn't sort the problem, I shouldn't at least get ripped off for parts.

I have been quoted £300 to power flush (3 radiators, but none currently have working valves).

I do live fairly centrally in London so would definitely be interested in getting Agile to quote - how would I contact him?

Many thanks guys - restoring my faith in the world!

You click on his name and send him an email

 

[kevplumb]

£100 a rad jeeeeez

knew i should have been driving a desk when i had the chance

 

[doitall]

£100 a rad jeeeeez

knew i should have been driving a desk when i had the chance

Trust me Kev in some parts of the charging zone it's worth every penny.

 

[kevplumb]

my ass

 

[geoff@cetltd]

I have just spoken to the plumber again who says the reason the sludge is causing a problem now when it wasn't before is that as the boiler has been standing not working for a few days, the sludge has solidified, so now needs a power flush. This sounded feasible to me - or am I gullible!

never heard so much balls for a long time

Its a CORGI fitter - what do you expect ?

 

[Laurasplog]

Thanks guys. I am in central London, but outside of the congestion zone, plus I have parking permits available.

One other potentially useful fact; although the boiler overheats every twenty minutes or so, the water it does heat (before conking out again) is very, very hot - much hotter than it normally is - despite the fact I've turned the boiler thermostat right down.

Could it be a boiler thermostat problem?

 

[kevplumb]

I have just spoken to the plumber again who says the reason the sludge is causing a problem now when it wasn't before is that as the boiler has been standing not working for a few days, the sludge has solidified, so now needs a power flush. This sounded feasible to me - or am I gullible!

never heard so much balls for a long time

what do i expect

ohh slaver from a scrap man

 

[doitall]

Thanks guys. I am in central London, but outside of the congestion zone, plus I have parking permits available.

One other potentially useful fact; although the boiler overheats every twenty minutes or so, the water it does heat (before conking out again) is very, very hot - much hotter than it normally is - despite the fact I've turned the boiler thermostat right down.

Could it be a boiler thermostat problem?

Boiler thermostat or faulty control box fitted.

You should get him back to check both, or get someone else and give him the bill.

Which model kingfisher is it

 

[Agile]

I am guessing this is a KF MF with fan and black PCB box at the top ( which has been changed already ).

The boiler temperature is controlled from an NTC sensor which is the same as the Suprima sensor via the PCB but the gas is only on/off modulated. Like many Potty boilers the temperature knob should only be used over the first 50% of its rotation as otherwise it gets too hot.

I am not yet convinced that the system needs power flushing but the failed rad valves need changing before I would contemplate power flushing. If I cannot do a job properly then I dont do it at all.

Tony

 

[doitall]

And if he forgot to plug all the wires in when he changed the control box, would the boiler overheat Tony

 

[Agile]

All the connections are on about five multiwire plugs so it would not work at all!

Tony

 

[doitall]

Temperature stat has it's own two wires, and so does the temperature sensor, I think

 

[Agile]

Yes, at the unit itself.

But, apart from the ignition connection, all plugs to the PCB are at least four pole.

If either the o/h stat or the sensor are not connected the boiler will not fire up.

Tony

 

[DP]

Laura, you should be able to see three pipes rear of boiler. Two of these will be fatter. When boiler is on (e.g. heating water), both fat pipes will get hot (one hotter than the other). Bewarned, pipes might get VERY hot.

Check if both pipes are as indicated above during HW heating. Now select CH alone (you may not be able to do this depending on how your system is fitted) and see if to start with, one of the pipes on each radiator is heating up with the second warming after some 15 minutes.

On your timer/ programmer, you should be able to select HW by itself. Can you indicate if selecting CH by itself also switches on HW?

Does your boiler have a grey knob top left with a green light nearby? The panel for this boiler (where the control knob is fitted) will be grey plastic.

I would be looking at displaced sensor (it not being subjected to heat generated, hence not able to control the boiler) instead of sediment related issues.

What is wrong with your radiator valves.