This could be the case. I will check. As the pipe upto and including the pump is hot but not after the pump and the 3 port valve!
To open the valve, do you turn the valve clockwise (right) or anticlock wise (Left)?
Potterton Profile 80e boiler cutting off no heating or water
- Thread starter ragingcat
- Start date
This could be the case. I will check. As the pipe upto and including the pump is hot but not after the pump and the 3 port valve!
To open the valve, do you turn the valve clockwise (right) or anticlock wise (Left)?
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Valve is with the wheel
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yes the valves on both side of pump are wheel type. You remove the wheel from one and fit on the other to operate. The wheels are removable
Done that both valves were open anyway. I find that now when I turned on the bolier the pipe up to the pump is not hot. Any other ideas?
yes. They are both fine.
Mike, the twgas ( BG Enginner) suggested that 3 port valve may have been seized.
What is the solution? Do I need to replace the 3 port valve or does it need to be removed and cleaned, although this is not something that I would do myself!
Honeywell 3 position Sundial Y Plan
just browsed over thread but this bit sticks out like a sore thumb. Your mid-pos valve is likely to be seized as someone previously mentioned.
If it is seized does it need to be replaced or cleaned? I do not mind spending £60 for valve plus labour if that solves the problem. However at the moment as you know the boiler is shutting off after few minutes. Is the seized valve causing boiler to shut off after few minutes?
replaced. Cost for someone to do it would be around £120. Although it does sound as if your system may need flushing. Can't say for sure without seeing it.
As for the flushing guy, sounds like a nob. Plenty of things can start leaking during a powerflush but if you take that stance you'd probably never do one. 90% of the time there's no problems, sometimes the odd rad valve and ver very rarely, a cylinder or rad might burst, but thats the nature of the work and why all my custards sign a disclaimer
Cylinder replacement should be around 450-600 depending on size and any upgrades required for compliance. P'flush £350ish. For £1100 I'd do the lot!
As for the flushing guy, sounds like a nob. Plenty of things can start leaking during a powerflush but if you take that stance you'd probably never do one. 90% of the time there's no problems, sometimes the odd rad valve and ver very rarely, a cylinder or rad might burst, but thats the nature of the work and why all my custards sign a disclaimer
Cylinder replacement should be around 450-600 depending on size and any upgrades required for compliance. P'flush £350ish. For £1100 I'd do the lot! replaced. Cost for someone to do it would be around £120. Although it does sound as if your system may need flushing. Can't say for sure without seeing it.
As for the flushing guy, sounds like a nob. Plenty of things can start leaking during a powerflush but if you take that stance you'd probably never do one. 90% of the time there's no problems, sometimes the odd rad valve and ver very rarely, a cylinder or rad might burst, but thats the nature of the work and why all my custards sign a disclaimer
see the email sent to your hotmail address to disucss
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