Power cut problem on Castle Caretech 1700

[mryoung]

Following our power cut problems, I want to replace my Castle caretech 1700Mk2 panel and keypad as the 64 pin processor has blown and I can't find a replacement. I've had a quote of £420 which is a lot for a poor old pensioner so I'm hoping to do it myself. I've looked on the Castle site and they recommend their Euro 76 panel which has enough in/outputs to cover Fort Knox! Wouldn't the Euro Mini 10 do the trick? It's a domestic installation with 8 zones and just the 1 input position. I want to use existing wiring and sensors and just replace the panel and keypad and add a panic button. Any help would be appreciated.

Yes it would do fine, but, castle is not a diy panel and i would put money on you struggling with programming (no offense intended there btw)

If you're gonna diy, have a look at some texecom gear, they have a range aimed at the diy end, easy to install and programmed out the box.

 

[Gammaray]

Thanks for that. I've had a look at Texecom and the Veritas Excel, which seems to be well thought of, looks as though it would fit the bill but I have a few concerns:-
1. Will it work OK with the ID biscuit wiring on the existing PIR's?
2. As it has only 8 zones which are all in use, will I be able to fit a panic button in the Master Bedroom?
3. I need to move one PIR. Can I extend the cabling to one of the PIR's by a couple of feet?
4. Are there any major pitfalls I need to avoid?

Thanks again.

Following our power cut problems, I want to replace my Castle caretech 1700Mk2 panel and keypad as the 64 pin processor has blown and I can't find a replacement. I've had a quote of £420 which is a lot for a poor old pensioner so I'm hoping to do it myself. I've looked on the Castle site and they recommend their Euro 76 panel which has enough in/outputs to cover Fort Knox! Wouldn't the Euro Mini 10 do the trick? It's a domestic installation with 8 zones and just the 1 input position. I want to use existing wiring and sensors and just replace the panel and keypad and add a panic button. Any help would be appreciated.

Yes it would do fine, but, castle is not a diy panel and i would put money on you struggling with programming (no offense intended there btw)

If you're gonna diy, have a look at some texecom gear, they have a range aimed at the diy end, easy to install and programmed out the box.

 

[Alarm]

1, no
2, no
3, yes
4, drop the ID, which will mean rewiring.

The Texecom Premier will suport ID.

 

[mryoung]

1, no
2, no
3, yes
4, drop the ID, which will mean rewiring.

The Texecom Premier will suport ID.

QFA

Didnt know you were dealing with ID op, also didnt know the prem did ID
Again, not really diy, but, easyer than a euro for programming.

 

[Gammaray]

1, no
2, no
3, yes
4, drop the ID, which will mean rewiring.

The Texecom Premier will suport ID.

Hmmm! Looks like back to the drawing board! Don't want to get into re-wire 'cos of health problems and now a bit bothered about getting out of my depth. Premier 24 doesn't support double pole wiring and I'm not sure if this is needed for ID. Premier 24 + Keypad would be £105 but 48 would increase to £139 vs contractors quote of £420. Perhaps I'll try a little arm twisting! Thanks for your help.

 

[scott1980]

Do you know if each detector is cabled back to the control panel seperately? Count the number of detectors you have and the count the number of cables in your control panel. You should have a cable for each detector, plus one for the keypad, one for the bell box and maybe one for an internal sounder.

It's possible the installers may have "back to backed" two or more detectors on one cable, or even put the entire detection on one cable, but I have seen a couple of iD installs where the installer had (thankfully) cabled them individually, making a change to conventional wiring much, much easier.

You could try getting a couple more quotes to compare. Some companies up here will install a full new system (4 detectors) for the quote you've got to upgrade the panel. Our domestic installs start at around £450...

 

[Alarm]

You will prpbably find the ID panels you saw were swap overs hence all individual cables.
The whole point of ID is not running seperate cables everywhere, one radial with a few spurs maybe.

 

[Gammaray]

Do you know if each detector is cabled back to the control panel seperately? Count the number of detectors you have and the count the number of cables in your control panel. You should have a cable for each detector, plus one for the keypad, one for the bell box and maybe one for an internal sounder.

It's possible the installers may have "back to backed" two or more detectors on one cable, or even put the entire detection on one cable, but I have seen a couple of iD installs where the installer had (thankfully) cabled them individually, making a change to conventional wiring much, much easier.

You could try getting a couple more quotes to compare. Some companies up here will install a full new system (4 detectors) for the quote you've got to upgrade the panel. Our domestic installs start at around £450...

It doesn't look like it; I have 7 PIR's and 1 set door contacts. Back at the panel I have 1 Bell white 6core, RKP( presumably Remote keypad) white 6core, LS ( presumably Loudspeaker) white 4core, Bed 3 (presumably 1 PIR) white 4core, ID ( presumably 6 PIR's + door contacts) brown 4 core.
I guess that means I'd be looking at complete re-wire or programming a panel that supports ID. Can't do the re-wire and don't know if existing biscuits would match all panels or are brand specific?

I had hoped it would be a straightforward case of new panel & keypad; hook up existing cabling and presto !!! Aaaghh! I hate letting things beat me and it's so annoying when I know all the wiring and components are fine apart from the processor which blew during the power out/surge.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Gammaray]

You will prpbably find the ID panels you saw were swap overs hence all individual cables.
The whole point of ID is not running seperate cables everywhere, one radial with a few spurs maybe.

As you see from my reply to Scott1980, it seems to have been a pukka job. The wiring is very neat with tidy cable runs and all components properly mounted. Shame it doesn't work!

Thanks again.

 

[Alarm]

As I said the Premier 24 with the 24idExpander will do the trick.

The panel supports 8 zones DP or EOL. The expander 24 ID zones.

 

[Gammaray]

As I said the Premier 24 with the 24idExpander will do the trick.

The panel supports 8 zones DP or EOL. The expander 24 ID zones.

On order and picking up tomorrow with LCD RKP. Hoping for the best on programming!

Thanks again for your help.

 

[Gammaray]

Well, the Premier 24 panel, IXD expander and Premier LCD RKP arrived OK and I've checked out the existing Caretech panel & Keypad wiring against the intended Texecom set up. All seems Ok but before I start I'd really appreciate your help in clarifying a few points.

1. The Caretech panel has 21 terminals with 4 unused. I've accounted for all except No 1 (top) marked "SP" & No4 Marked "C" on panel & RKP. What are these & where do they go on the Texecom?

2. There were 4 resistors supplied with the new RKP and 40 various resistors with the panel. As I'm on an ID line connected to the IXD do I set all 8 zones to "O" not used and, if so, do I need these resistors?

3. The IXD included 2x10nF capacitors. Do I need these if the system was OK on the Caretech panel?

4. I want to add a panic button in the master bedroom. Does this go seperately on one of the 8 zones or must I fit with an ID biscuit & run from the IXD?

Once I've got the wiring sorted I'll have to do a crash course on programming the panel though I'm hoping factory defaults will sort most of it! Thanks in anticipation.

 

[Alarm]

Its not going to be like for like.

Seperate the loop (s). The bell and the keypad.
Then put into the corresponding terminals.
The resistors are for EOL wiring, so just put them aside and forget them.
The capasoitors are to go at junctions ( bridge across the data line) to smooth them out ( well castles were) leave out for now, see what happens.

You can either extend the ID loop and add the Panic button (HUD) or add it to the panel.

Defaults will give you basic stuff, you will still have to programe zones, part sets ect.

 

[Gammaray]

Its not going to be like for like.

Seperate the loop (s). The bell and the keypad.
Then put into the corresponding terminals.
The resistors are for EOL wiring, so just put them aside and forget them.
The capasoitors are to go at junctions ( bridge across the data line) to smooth them out ( well castles were) leave out for now, see what happens.

You can either extend the ID loop and add the Panic button (HUD) or add it to the panel.

Defaults will give you basic stuff, you will still have to programe zones, part sets ect.

Thanks; I'll wire up tomorrow. I've just used the two surplus cores to double up on the power to the RKP although, just for my curiosity, I'd like to know what the "C" and "SP" terminals were for?
BTW... I won't be programming part sets life's complicated enough!!!

 

[Alarm]

Think C was the Data common. SP was the speaker output

Honest, didnt look it up