radial circuit

[dingbat]

I don't know where VIR cable came from I don't remember mentioning that.

You said:

A few months ago, I rewired a house built in 1954.

In the fifties it would have had rubber insulation. It's only in the last post you added:

This house had the old single core (grey outer red/black) inner cable - probably rewired in the mid 60's.

Anyway, I don't think we fundamentally disagree.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

thanks for the reply prenticeboy are you saying no-one can do diy electrical work at all, not even putting in some extra plugholes, without these inspections and fees applying ? i've not seen that on any other threads i've read.

Sorry for the delay in my reply fairbrother89, this has now been covered by other members replies.
But as the area you wish to do the electrical work is in the kitchen, the answer is yes, unless you are a member of a domestic installers scheme.
The work should be notified to building controls prior to starting work and a fee is payable, this will vary from regional council areas.
If it was work within an area that is not considered a special location or kitchen, you could add "plugholes!" or even socket-outlets to an existing circuit, under minor works, but if the circuit was to be installed new, again notification and a fee to building controls.
Hope this answers your question.

 

[fairbrother89]

ok. i'm just going to use an ordinary 4 gang extension lead plugged into the socket you can see in my pictures on the same unit as the cooker switch and run the fridge and the oven (on a 13amp plug) off that.

i am still a bit confused as to how come my entire plughole system is fed by what appears to be 2.5mm cabling off a 30amp fuse.

 

[electronicsuk]

ok. i'm just going to use an ordinary 4 gang extension lead plugged into the socket you can see in my pictures on the same unit as the cooker switch and run the fridge and the oven (on a 13amp plug) off that.

Feeding an oven and fridge off a single 13A socket does not seem like a sensible idea. I know I suggested the use of an extension lead earlier, but why must it be plugged into the cooker outlet? Surely this is not the only socket in your kitchen?

I would suggest a better option, for the time being at least, would be for the oven to be plugged into it's own socket, and the extension lead be fed from a free socket elsewhere in the kitchen.

If you have an entire 2.5mm radial circuit fed from a 30A protective device in your house then it sounds as if your wiring is in even more urgent need of attention than you want to believe. However, more likely is that there will be two sets of conductors forming what we call a ring final circuit.

 

[fairbrother89]

sorry i may not have been clear. the socket into which the extension is plugged is a separate socket NEXT to the cooker SWITCH not the actual outlet. in other words its just a normal plughole. the only other double socket in the kitchen is in an inconvenient spot re the layout of where i want things sited.
i'm sure you must be right about the wiring though i don't know what conductors are. the 30 amp fuse is described as "ring main"

one thing that would help is to know whether the cooker outlet protected by a 30a fuse is ok for the hob to go into. its an ordinary 4 ring hob. not ceramic or induction.