Radiator gets hot although thermostat is off

It still need the electrician to come around and sort the wiring out as the old one had 3 wires the new one has 5 wires.

Are you sure it wasn't four wires in the old one? :confused: :confused: :confused:

Is one of the new wires coloured green/yellow? That's an earth wire. Some have them and some don't.

Electrician has wired it in so we can have some heating but we have no control over temperature so i turn it on to warm house up and then turn it all off again at the fuse box in the airing cupboard.

Does this mean that your programmer/time clock has no control over anything at all? Can you get hot water? Try different combinations of CH and HW On and Off (there are four possibilities). Does the valve move at all? Does it move when you turn on the main switch in the cupboard. (Listen for its motor.) Do the boiler and pump start up immediately when you flip the switch or does the valve have to move first?

When you switch on from cold, check the pipes connected to the valve and see which ones get hot. Try this with different settings on the programmer.

I know that's more questions than answers but there are awful lot of wrong ways to wire up a valve. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

An so to those cold radiators:

It sounds like you have air trapped somewhere. You'll need to bleed it out. Here's what I do in difficult cases. Start with ground floor radiators and work upwards.

1) Check that there is water in your header tank.

2) Turn off all the radiators except a cold one.

3) Do whatever you have to do to get the pump running.

4) After a few minutes, STOP THE PUMP and bleed the radiator.

5) Repeat 3 and 4 until no more air comes out.

6) Bleed all the other radiators.

7) Move on to the next radiator and repeat from step 2.

It's important to stop the pump when bleeding because on some systems the pump can suck air in. On the other hand you need pump pressure to blow airlocks out of the pipes.

PS: Bleed your cylinder heating coil as part of step 6.
 
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Thank you for all advice, I have now asked the plumber to come back around hopefully tomorrow and the electrician is coming next weekend to wire it all up properly he said it all needs rewiring and hes a friend of the family.

No we have no control or programmer at present we have having a new one put in next weekend when the wiring is done cause we have an old turning one that is rubbish getting a nice new one that is digital.

the one we have you have to have hot water and heater all on at the same time, its rubbish.

Yes there were 3 wires in old HVAC and there are 5 in new one.
 
Few quesitions:

Where and what is the header tank

I turned all rads off but a couple still got HOT?

I bleed the rad that was cold but no air just lots of clean water.

Not sure which side of cold rad turns rad on and off, if i take the caps off each end should the little metal poles both me long or should one be inside when rad on?

Ta
 
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Header tank will most likely be in loft space. It will be fed with mains water controlled by ball valve. Water in tank will replace any losses after draining down or bleeding.
Valves on each side of radiator are basically the same. One has knob so it can be opened or closed. (on/off). Other is set partially open with knob or spanner to resrict the flow in that particular radiator. Adjust accordingly if room is too cold or too hot. For water to flow in and out of the radiator this valve must not be fully closed or subject to blockage.
:rolleyes:
 

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