It still need the electrician to come around and sort the wiring out as the old one had 3 wires the new one has 5 wires.
Are you sure it wasn't four wires in the old one?
Is one of the new wires coloured green/yellow? That's an earth wire. Some have them and some don't.
Electrician has wired it in so we can have some heating but we have no control over temperature so i turn it on to warm house up and then turn it all off again at the fuse box in the airing cupboard.
Does this mean that your programmer/time clock has no control over anything at all? Can you get hot water? Try different combinations of CH and HW On and Off (there are four possibilities). Does the valve move at all? Does it move when you turn on the main switch in the cupboard. (Listen for its motor.) Do the boiler and pump start up immediately when you flip the switch or does the valve have to move first?
When you switch on from cold, check the pipes connected to the valve and see which ones get hot. Try this with different settings on the programmer.
I know that's more questions than answers but there are awful lot of wrong ways to wire up a valve.
An so to those cold radiators:
It sounds like you have air trapped somewhere. You'll need to bleed it out. Here's what I do in difficult cases. Start with ground floor radiators and work upwards.
1) Check that there is water in your header tank.
2) Turn off all the radiators except a cold one.
3) Do whatever you have to do to get the pump running.
4) After a few minutes, STOP THE PUMP and bleed the radiator.
5) Repeat 3 and 4 until no more air comes out.
6) Bleed all the other radiators.
7) Move on to the next radiator and repeat from step 2.
It's important to stop the pump when bleeding because on some systems the pump can suck air in. On the other hand you need pump pressure to blow airlocks out of the pipes.
PS: Bleed your cylinder heating coil as part of step 6.