Rafters.

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Hi Guys,

Am new here so please go easy and try and ignore my ignorance as a DIY er, ok so I am building a shed and just about to start battening the roof to lay some clay tiles on to, but I have noticed that I have some dips in the odd couple of rafters but at this point I won't say how much of A dip there is so my next question is how much of a dip in a rafter would you ignore and think aay it will be ok for what it is or would you be mr perfect and make it right. :) :) :rolleyes:
 
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small dips could be packed out if you like but if you dont like, if you can get a batten on then a clay plain tile can usually be laid... Surely it cant be very far out.
However, i'd be more concerned about wall/ roof spread due to weight .how have you tied it all together?
 
It depends on the rafter spacing and tiles, but something like 10mm difference can upset the tiles and not let them sit properly

You can leave the rafters, but make sure that you pack up the laths to keep them reasonably flat and level
 
Hi Reb,

Yeah I have thought about that and still do, the framing for the wall is 3 x 3 all round and boarded with 5x1 so the wall thickness is 4" the rafters are 4x2s the span is 9ft and the roof pitch is 40deg and I have put a collar across each set of rafters about a third of the way down from the ridge.


In fact thinking about it I have only put one collar on one side of each set of rafters would it be better to put one on each side to help stop any possible twisting of rafters ? if you see what I mean.

I think there called collars anyway ? to produce a triangle in the roof pitch.
 
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It depends on the rafter spacing and tiles, but something like 10mm difference can upset the tiles and not let them sit properly

You can leave the rafters, but make sure that you pack up the laths to keep them reasonably flat and level


Hi Woody,

rafter spacings are 600m, dips are 3 to 4 mm. :oops:
 
Another question :)

A bit concerned about a possible water trap, where the fascia board top is above the line of the battens so the tiles sit correctly, you pros know how it goes 1, eaves tray 2, felt on top, 3, battens, when I nailed the first batten down for the first row it caused the trays to dip down and because the trays run the full length it makes it solid all the way along and no where for any water from a roof leakage that runs down the felt in-between the rafters, hope any body reading this can understand what I am trying to say. :)
 
Make a half decent job of the tiling and there will be no water to trap. :p


Hi thanks for your reply, I got all the batten gauges right and I tried the first two rows as a test run and the tiles sit nicely all the way along the top of the fascia board so I am now hoping that the rest of the tiles sit the same way, the only other thing an a bit worried about is breaking some tiles if I have the need to stand on them, maybe I should knock a little cat ladder up from some battens ?

Karl.
 
there should be no need to stand on them, or use a cat ladder, if you do it properly...
 
there should be no need to stand on them, or use a cat ladder, if you do it properly...

Hi Reb, Please explain to me how I should approach this job so I dont have to stand on any tiles, I have never done it before so your input would be appreciated , its not a big area but still the same method I guess. :)

Karl.
 
Roofers ridge as they go.

Either tiling and ridging there way along the roof from one end to the other or verge-up then ridge along to the middle then tile your way down.

Most concrete interlocking tiles, especially profiled ones will happily stand the weight of a decent sized bloke.
 
if its plain tiles, simply tile one side completely right to left. move to the other side and run the rh verge up, then (here's the trick) tile seven couses of tiles through the top, run the lh verge up, bed the ridge, then drop down and tile the rest in.
 
if its plain tiles, simply tile one side completely right to left. move to the other side and run the rh verge up, then (here's the trick) tile seven couses of tiles through the top, run the lh verge up, bed the ridge, then drop down and tile the rest in.


Cheers for that reb, I will do it that way as they are plain tiles, just one more thing you did mention a concern about weight and spread, did you read my reply to that ? :)
 

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