replacing bathroom light with 4 downlights

[matpj]

as the title suggests, i'm doing away with the hanging bathroom light, in favour of 4 concealed downlighters..

I'm wondering if its just a case of buying a junction box, and routing 4 lots of cables from it to the individual lights.
is there anything I need to be aware of?
or a more effective way of wiring them up?

 

[Steve]

as the title suggests, i'm doing away with the hanging bathroom light, in favour of 4 concealed downlighters..

I'm wondering if its just a case of buying a junction box, and routing 4 lots of cables from it to the individual lights.
is there anything I need to be aware of?
or a more effective way of wiring them up?

you've got it just about spot on there. mains halogen lights are a more attractive option than bog standard 60w spots, you might want to consider these. They look more modern. The other way of wiring the lights would be to daisy chain them - that is to run the wire from one fitting to the next, on to the last one. Personal choice.

also beware of insulation above these lights - they can give off a lot of heat from behind, so clear some insulation and preferably build a box around each light to prevent the insulation falling back.

 

[Nijinski001]

Hanging bathroom light!! That's worrying in its-self.

It's actually not just a case of routing cable for 4 lots of lights from a junction box.
For a start the junction box needs to be accessible in case of maintenence.
It also depends on the type of lights you opt for. Some low voltage lights may not just be 'daisy chained' for example. Make sure you read the instructions carefully.
It also flies in the face of the intention of energy saving initiatives to swap 1 x 60w light for 4 x 50w lights.

Oh and then there's part P........... Do you know about part P?

I have to admit though that down lights look infinitely more attractive.

 

[Steve]

ps. my advice was based on mains lamps only. OP never mentioned low voltage. Think he wants a stress-free installation, under strict instructions from 'er indoors.

he also never mentioned any accessibility problems to the loft (or he wouldnt be doing the job in the first place . . . ) so all junction boxes would be accessible in the loft.

also, a hanging bathroom light . . . may be wired as a loop-in. My suggestion: buy 2 junction boxes instead of one. Use one to replicate the connections in the ceiling rose (PLEASE note what goes where before you take the old light down) and the other JB to branch out to the downlights.

 

[greengrass]

I know you don't wan to here this but....

Your comments frighten me..you obviously haven't a clue.
Part P states... unless I've read it wrong.... you have to notify your local authority Building Control Office before you do any work on power in kitchens,bathrooms or outside lighting.

I am not an electrician but know what I am doing and treat electricity with respect, and even I would have to notify them.
Ask these of yourself.
Do you have to earth low voltage lights?.....if you answered yes... wrong you don't earth low voltage lighting unless it states otherwise.

Do you have to earth metal lighting?..... if you answered yes your right all metal lighting must be earthed. in fact power circuits must be continuous earthed throughout, omitting only appliances not to be earthed. Even metal pattress boxes of switches and socket even plastic ones that have an earth teminal in one corner.

So my advice is get a sparks [electrician] from you Local authority list in to price up the job it's better safe than sorry.
The problem start with selling the property you will have to tell the buyers solicitor about new work on elecs and they would ask for the certificate/s for that work to show it's been tested and is safe.
It's your decision on which way you go. Get more than one quote for the job as some electricians will take this certification as a lottery win.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Your comments frighten me..you obviously haven't a clue.

Part P states... unless I've read it wrong.... you have to notify your local authority Building Control Office before you do any work on power in kitchens,bathrooms or outside lighting.

Yes, you've read it wrong. I'm not saying that this work isn't notifiable, but it might not be.

I am not an electrician but know what I am doing

even I would have to notify them.

What, even if it wasn't notifiable? Now there's dedication!

Ask these of yourself.
Do you have to earth low voltage lights?.....if you answered yes... wrong you don't earth low voltage lighting unless it states otherwise.

Why are you hypothesising an incorrect answer to a question that wasn't asked?

Do you have to earth metal lighting?..... if you answered yes your right all metal lighting must be earthed.

No - only if it is Class I. It is quite possible to have Class II luminaires, and other devices, which are metal. You need to study the instructions, not just earth things because they are metal.

So my advice is get a sparks [electrician] from you Local authority list in to price up the job it's better safe than sorry.

That may be good advice for you.
It may be good advice for others.
It may be good advice for matpj, although I see no evidence of that.

If you are giving that advice because you are against the whole idea of DIY electrical work, then please go away and do not return - your presence here is pointless.

The problem start with selling the property you will have to tell the buyers solicitor about new work on elecs and they would ask for the certificate/s for that work to show it's been tested and is safe.

Possibly.

But if you think that lost certificates and the matter of a PIR costing in the same ballpark as the removal lorry is going to knacker a sale valued in the hundreds of thousands, you've got another think coming.

 

[jonny_throstle]

does anyone know if fire hoods are a nessessity for spotlights ?

 

[Steve]

only if they are in a fire rated ceiling.

 

[slippyr4]

which is not usually the case in a dwelling.

 

[matpj]

blimey!
what have I started!

I AM planning on using halogens (ones suitable for Zone 1)

I have full access via the loft to cut 4 75mm holes for the lights.

yes, there was a hanging light in the bathroom (the complete house, and its wiring and general state of decor leave A LOT to be desired - i'm slowly going through and sorting out problems that the last cowboy left behind!!)

I DO plan to carry out the installation myself - I am more than comfortable with such a basic installation - just hoping for any advice from others previous experience of such a job!

thank you all for your help and advice.
and yep, its on instruction for 'er indoors

 

[slippyr4]

daisy chaining the cables will make for a neater install. and it would be easier than trying to fit 4 cables into a junction box, as well as the loop & switch cables.

 

[Steve]

which is not usually the case in a dwelling.

except in a flat?

 

[slippyr4]

which is not usually the case in a dwelling.

except in a flat?

Ahah! you got your diynot.com hat back on!!!

 

[Nijinski001]

What if the ceiling has insulation above it such as rockwool?
Should fire hoods be used then?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The presence or absence of insulation has nothing to do with the requirement for fireproof hoods.

The purpose of fireproof hoods is not to keep insulation away from the lights.

If there is insulation, a large enough area should be cleared to prevent a build up of heat around the lights. For loose fill insulation this will require noggins to be fixed between the joists.

In order to comply with the Building Regulations you would be required to build an enclosed structure around each light (seek advice on clearances from the manufacturer) in order that insulation could be placed over the top and around the sides so as to restore the insulation level that existed before. Loose fill insulation would be spectacularly unsuitable here.