Riello 40 not firing

[colmcarlin]

Hi,

I ran out of oil during the night and turned off the control panel in the morning. I got oil delivered, turned the control panel on (indicator lit) went out to reset the boiler and there was no reaction. I went back in to check the control panel and the display was off. I changed the battery, but the indicator wouldn't come on. I replaced the unit with an indentical model and the indicator lit. I went out to reset the boiler and it wouldn't fire. Assuming an airlock I opened the nut to bleed the air, but no air came out only a dribble of oil. The boiler doesn't make any kind of roaring noise then cut out as expected, just an electrical hum followed by a click. The oil pump and motor were replaced about two years ago. Could anyone give me any advice before I have to call an engineer?

Thanks

Colm

 

[gremlin16]

Oil line still needs bleeding

 

[colmcarlin]

Gremlin16 thanks for your reply.

I had tried to bleed the boiler as I had to a few years back by opening the hex brass nut on the bottom left of this photo



(this is not my boiler just extremely similar), however no air came out as before. By bleed the oil line I assume you mean literally the line entering the boiler. Should this be done before or after the filter?

Thanks

Colm
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[gremlin16]

Preferably after filter. leave open end until you get a constant flow of oil.

Have you checked the filter bowl

If you have a fire valve fitted check it has not tripped.

 

[oilman]

If it hums and clicks, the capacitor may be low value. It may also be the oil pump seized. With the 40, you can stick a screwdriver in the air intake and see if you can rotate the fan. (Or take off the fan cover. It's only three screws.

 

[crockett]

Keep attempting to bleed my friend

 

[colmcarlin]

Thanks for the advice...I'll try that once I get back to the house. It's too cold to keep my son here on the days I have him!

 

[colmcarlin]

If it hums and clicks, the capacitor may be low value. It may also be the oil pump seized. With the 40, you can stick a screwdriver in the air intake and see if you can rotate the fan. (Or take off the fan cover. It's only three screws.

Oilman - what you suggested worked, once I got the fan moving it fired up nicely. However the following day it went out again and I still can't get it back on. Now the fan is going and the plate lifts. I can hear the oil pump going and a spark, but it shuts off about 5 seconds after. I took the control box out and cleaned the photocell, but it still will not light. Any further suggestions? Thanks for the help so far.

 

[Lockout]

Greetings!

I'm no expert but, in the event an airlock is the problem, I'll quote the install guide for my Riello 40F5 which looks pretty similar to yours and provides the following information on:

Pump Purge:

Note: To protect the pump gears, it is advisable to lubricate the pump prior to purging a lift system. Apply oil through the vacuum port. (Lockout notes: The hex brass nut you correctly described as the bleeder port. Above the bleeder is the pressure adjustment screw and the vacuum port is just around the corner on the face on the pump cover.)

A. Single Line (Gravity Feed System)

I. Loosen the bleeder valve until oil flows out. Tighten bleeder valve and start burner. (Lockout notes: You tried this already I believe)

II. When bleeding the pump by pressure:

(Lockout notes: have flashlight and a descent bucket-pan available under the bleeder to catch the stream of fuel that flows when this works properly)

1 Loosen bleeder valve.
2. Disconnect nozzle oil supply line at pump nozzle port. (Lockout notes: this is the fuel line from the pump to the nozzle)
3. Attach a flexible plastic tube to the pump nozzle port, directing the oil flow into a bucket.
4. Loosen the screw(s) securing the air tube cover, allowing it to be removed freely. (Lockout notes: this is just in front of the control box and mine is held in place by two screws on the left side which allow the left side of the cover to be removed exposing the electrode-nozzle assembly and the photocell at the front of the control box)
5. Holding the air tube cover in its proper location start the burner.
6. When the solenoid valve is engaged approximately 10 seconds after starting, remove the air tube cover and shine a light source on the photocell, allowing it to see false light.
7. Run burner until the fuel pump has been purged of air, then tighten the bleeder valve and immediately shut down the burner. (Lockout notes: you should get a fairly good stream of fuel flowing, allow it to run until the stream is clear with no foam or bubbles.)
8. Reinstall the air tube cover and the nozzle line.
9. The burner can now be started normally.

B. Two line (lift system)

Turn off the main power and remove the air tube cover. Shine a light source on the photocell (now visible where the air tube cover was removed), return power to the burner and activate the burner. With the light source in place, the burner will operate in prepurge only. When the pump is sufficiently purged, the hydraulic air shutter will open. Once the burner is purged, turn off the power source and replce the air tube cover. Return power to the burner. The burner is now ready to operate.

Hope this information is useful.