Riello Burner Fault

[sadmuppet]

Hello,
I have a starting problem with my Riello 40 G2S. The motor runs continuously, but it fails to even attempt to start burning. I've just changed the control unit, along with the nozzle and capacitor, but it's running exactly the same. There is definitely no spark after the 12 seconds, nor any jet of oil as far as I can see (or smell), but it doesn't shut off the motor after the next 5 secs within which it is supposed to light. I'm stumped! Please can anyone help? It would be much appreciated as we have suffered the cold since Xmas eve.

 

[stumpydick]

try a new photocell

 

[sadmuppet]

try a new photocell

Thanks StumpyDick, that's probably what I was going to try tomorrow. Should have got one when I got the controller but another customer in the shop said the photocell does nothing until after 12+5 seconds when there is no flame. I've tested it and got 20Kohms in dim light and 1.5Mohms in darkness, but have no idea if this is correct.

 

[oilman]

You need to check there is 50Vac on the white wire of the motor when it's running.

 

[sadmuppet]

You need to check there is 50Vac on the white wire of the motor when it's running.

Yes, there's 52V ac.when it's running.

 

[sadmuppet]

I just checked the oil pump pressure and found it only has 3 bar and won't adjust at all, but can't see anything wrong with it internally!
I should have checked this before, although if this is the problem why would it stop the spark or the motor cutout? There is no pressure sensor anywhere, is there? Still confused.

 

[oilman]

3 bar is a bit higher than it's usual wash pressure, and the full pressure is set when the solenoid closes the valve. Though you don't know the accuracy of your gauge. The solenoid stem may be faulty, but there is nothing to do until you have tried a new photocell. You cannot start working on another theory until you have explored the first.

That other customer you saw in the suppliers is like most who work on oil burners, they know very little about them or how they work. All recent production burners carry out a false light check first to have some confidence in the correct functioning of the photocell.

 

[sadmuppet]

3 bar is a bit higher than it's usual wash pressure, and the full pressure is set when the solenoid closes the valve. Though you don't know the accuracy of your gauge. The solenoid stem may be faulty, but there is nothing to do until you have tried a new photocell. You cannot start working on another theory until you have explored the first.

That other customer you saw in the suppliers is like most who work on oil burners, they know very little about them or how they work. All recent production burners carry out a false light check first to have some confidence in the correct functioning of the photocell.

Thanks, I'll get one tomorrow, hopefully.

 

[sadmuppet]

For the sake of anyone with a similar problem:-

I fitted a new photocell which tested at 20kohms in daylight and 50kohms in darkness. A lot lower than the original, but it didn't make any difference to the burner anyway.
I also fitted a new pump coil and the burner fired straight away! The conclusion from this is that the coil on the oil pump valve has to work before the spark can trigger.
Thanks for the advice from those who answered.

 

[stumpydick]

glad its fixed. you have been rather unlucky, in 3 yrs working on rdbs i have not yet replaced a soleniod, about 100 oil pumps though

 

[oilman]

glad its fixed. you have been rather unlucky, in 3 yrs working on rdbs i have not yet replaced a soleniod, about 100 oil pumps though

But this is a G2 burner.

 

[stumpydick]

oilman, would a faulty solenoid on an earlier g2 burner stop the ignition sequence ? [sparking]

 

[wilhelm]

the ignition comes on exactly the same time as solenoid operates . after 12secs.