Seeing as how you all like pictures so much

Besa boxes are not supposed to be buried in the ground.
They aren't actually buried in the ground - they are on top of a layer of gravel and sand, and below a layer of pebbles, i.e. it's all well drained.


Filling them with a putty type filler will not make the connections waterproof.
"Protects electrical connections from moisture and corrosive vapours and is widely used in a variety of electrical applications including work on junction and conduit boxes." Were the boxes to be truly buried or immersed I wouldn't have used it, but it seemed a useful insurance policy for boxes which may be in a shallow puddle now and then. This coming winter will be the first one they've been through, and I plan to look during or just after periods of heavy rain to see if any standing water collects there.


Fitting fibre washers that will rot means the gland connection will become loose.
OK - I'll check them too if the self-amalgamating tape covering looks dodgy.


The only way to make an underground joint is to use a resin cast joint.
I don't at the moment foresee any need for truly underground joints, but OOI do Pratley boxes not do what it says on the tin (IP68)?


If the joint is not underground you could use a besa box with grommet and heavy duty lid - nothing else required. There is no need to add washers to the gland but if you think they are required you should use lead washers.
OK - take your point about fibre washers, but is lead OK? Lead and Zinc are a fair way apart on the Galvanic Table - is corrosion not a worry? Are there any non-metallic materials that could be used, e.g. nylon or neoprene?

It is bad practise and to drill holes in the sides or tops of weatherproof enclosures, all holes should be on the underside. For the same reason your photo cell should be fixed to the brickwork
I can't help noting that the enclosures come with holes in the back... ;)

There are often cases where the "ideal" is not what is wanted, and I believe that I have done what was necessary to maintain an adequate IP rating for the enclosure. I may turn out to be wrong, but only in that case would it be right to accuse me of poor workmanship - if my work does what I expect then it's not poor.


The socket should have been external to the enclosure, if you leave the bottom plate off to plug something in you will get condensation problems.
Without it being interpreted as a challenge, I'm curious to know why, given that the enclosure is not hermetically sealed, and everything is at the same temperature and humidity.

But I will watch out for that if ever I do remove the plate.

Thanks for all the answers.
 
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hope you`ve notified it !

You never reply to this point BAS....did you notify and how was the process? How much did you have to pay the council and how was the experience?

Or is your install illegal....hmmmm
 
hope you`ve notified it !

You never reply to this point BAS....did you notify and how was the process? How much did you have to pay the council and how was the experience?

Or is your install illegal....hmmmm

I do not think it was done illegally as he mentioned testing and inspection.

BAS good neat work.

The galv trouser box's I used that method on some lights in a front garden about 8 years ago now as a job on the side, never had any issues even when I PIR'ed it a few months back. I guess yours will be the same and never will have any issues. I filled them with that IRRELLI compound you used and used crimp terminals.

Adam
 
I do not think it was done illegally as he mentioned testing and inspection.

BAS good neat work.

The galv trouser box's I used that method on some lights in a front garden about 8 years ago now as a job on the side, never had any issues even when I PIR'ed it a few months back. I guess yours will be the same and never will have any issues. I filled them with that IRRELLI compound you used and used crimp terminals.

Adam

He wrote that HE had tested it, not that it was tested and notified! So am I correct in thinking that as long as work is "tested" by the person doing it, then all is OK?

Before sealing everything up, BTW, I checked continuity (R1+R2 & Rn+(Rs?? is there a symbol for the armour resistance??)) at each box and each light and insulation resistance - all OK.
 
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A new ID would imply I've got an old ID. I don't.

I've been a long time lurker who's had many a question but never bothered to ask because I'd likely be shot down in flames or refered to the competant persons website.

It's a shame really, what used to be a good DIY site has slowly been overrun by the regulation police. I'm not against rules and regs and understand they have a place in socety, regardless of how draconian some appear to be. At the end of the day, they are (mostly) created to save peoples lives.

What I do have a problem with, is those that force those regualtion and views on others yet flagrently disregard those rules themselves.

I'm going to remain on here and will post as and when I feel like it. I do enjoy the helpful people that post on here and the pictures are always entertaining [Pic of the week]. I think they make me feel better about the ancient wiring that I inhertied when I brought my own property.
 
So, you don't actually need to get an EIC for your installation then. Is that correct?
 
Bored with this now...... can you post a more recent job BAS, or have you not installed anything since march 08 :rolleyes:
 

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